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TravelMagic
I have finally made it to New Zealand. Arriving to Auckland, hitching from the airport. So far I have to say, I met lots of very nice people around.
Auckland Streets
Auckland Graffiti
Wai-O-Tapu Thermal Park
Quick stop in Singapore to catch my flight to New Zealand ....
Malaysia rock! After Thailand I found the Penang Island and the city of George Town very interesting. George Town has many old buildings in the colonial architecture and as I learned today the biggest Chinese population in Malaysia. And so the 15th day of Chinese New Year celebration went on with huge incense sticks, many people praying, ... Really authentic atmosphere.
15th day of Chinese New Year - Penang
Fabulous door - Penang, Malaysia
Clock Tower - George Town, Penang
Rich country of Thailand and Bangkok - the crazy tourist hang out. It is really big change to see so many 'white faces'. Also the year of Pig (2550 - Chinese calendar) had come, but the celebrations sucked in Bangkok.
2550 - Year of Pig - Chinese calendar
Bangkok - Thailand
One of the poorest countries in the world?! That how the economic definition goes. The country itself is almost like two worlds. A beautiful undeveloped Ratnakiri province (near Vietnam and Laos borders) with deep jungle, tribal people and still a few tourists. And then Siem Riep, where the famous Angkor temple is found. Overpriced and extremely touristy, where I felt like supporting the whole economy of the country.
Angkor Temples - Siem Riep
In the jungle - Ratnakiri province
Spiders - they eat them fried!!!
Sun Set - Ratnakiri - Cambodia
Phon Penh - Killing Fields
Good Morning Vietnam!!!!
Yes, I am in the country of Ho Chi Minh, place of the famous Vietnam war and country where the communist regime feels more like capitalism, with many "pretty" red flags everywhere.
Rickshaw in Saigon
Rush Hour - Saigon
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More to follow soonish - as for Laos and China
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New Year brings change to my travelling too. I have decided it is a time to cross to another country and so shortly after stepping into 2007 I have left China and crossed to Laos. There were not any major delays on the border and without even taking bags out of the bus I easily swapped the countries and continued all the way to Luang Nam Tha. The first bigger place after the border. It was not as far into the country, but the change is noticeable. Suddenly I found myself in the tropical country, with less advanced technology and no people. That is the biggest change from China. There are not many people and roads are almost traffic free. What a pleasure to cycle around. Also the local villages are much less developed then in China.
LUANG NAM THA - is nice and quite cheap place to hang out. People there are friendly and I really enjoy going through the surrounding villages. You can see much of the local life there and just easily walk or cycle in the countryside. Many rice fields on the foothills.
NONG KHIAW - Second place to where I moved from Luang Nam Tha. Living is relatively cheap and I have managed to find excellent room with a terrace overlooking a Nam Ou river and with the really friendly owners. One of a few people, who were nice in this place. Food in the restaurants is overpriced and there is no choice of any local cuisine. Shops are sometimes more expensive then restaurants for the same items. For me this place is a big rip off, where people are not used to the tourism yet and they see just easy money. Though they do not offer anything in return. They rather try to cheat you to maximalise their profits. So no bargain, no discount, but many ridiculous requests. It made me really angry to deal with some of them. And they all look so miserable, like they hate their life. That is a big difference from Luang Nam Tha. There people in the villages live normal life and they are happy. Although they are a bit reserved and also the language barrier, you can talk with them, laugh with them, ….. In Nong Khiaw it is not possible and when you manage to interact with someone, sooner or later they will try to make money from you. Well, that’s mine feeling about the place.
MUANG NGOI - much better choice, although it is very much a tourist village. People there are much friendlier and they still live their traditional lives. You can do some nice walks in the surrounding, explore the villages and the mountain scenery around is rather spectacular. As it is on the river and the access is only by a boat, you can do lots of other activities too. Like to hire a kayak or a local with the boat and go around for a ride or fishing, swimming, tubing. This place is an hour boat ride up the river from Nong Khiaw and it cost 18.000 Kip one way.
LUANG PRABANG - quite a big place on a Mekong river, reachable from Nong Khiaw by boat (7 hours - 100.000 kip) or by bus (4 hours - 32.000 kip). It is watched by Unesco for its unique colonial architecture and many “Wats” which is a Buddhist temple. It is incredibly touristy place, thanks to the airport and easy reach from Thailand or Vientiane. Many people also come by boat on the Mekong river, which is also great experience. Accommodation is much more expensive, but you have much bigger choice of food. Its night market with its barbeques and street dishes makes it cheap and tasty culinary experience.
VANG VIENG - more like a tourist town, where the local life goes on. Many restaurants have TV playing all day long the famous shows like Friends or Simpsons and some also show good films. But no need to move, it is easy to stay in hammock on the river or in front of your bungalow. Don’t worry, there are possibilities for an active life style too. The countryside has many hills and caves, which you can visit. It is simple to go for the river kayaking, rock climbing, tubing (one of the local tourist attraction - drink as many beers as you can stand, while tubing down the river), rent a bike or just walk through the jungle to the nearby villages. In the evening, you can watch a line of millions of bats twisting above the hills just after the sunset. It is an incredible natural phenomenon. The bats group and leave the cave together to hunt for a food at the same time. They create long line stretching over the horizon. You can see them every evening for a few minutes. It’s like a watching a show.
Absolutely perfect place to stay is in the bungalows “On the other side”, which you can find just after crossing the bamboo bridge over the river. You are so closed to the main street, but in a relaxing place completely isolated from civilisation by the river. You can enjoy many great views to the open countryside, on hills, jungle and rice fields and of course, the river life on the other side. There is nothing though, you would be deprived of. Two bungalow restaurants can cook you great food or make a fruit shake anytime of the day.
Another think I was looking for and found is a rooster fight. It is something very typical for Laos and other countries in South East Asia. For me it is rather a perfect photo opportunity. It isn’t been made into a tourist attraction like a kickboxing. It still continues to be just a passion of the local people. And that is what the atmosphere was like.
Many Greetings from a far away lands and the best wishes for Christmas and New Year 2007.
Time flies, especially for me while travelling.
Last eight months were great and I did many things which deeply enriched my life.
Some of them might sound little bit crazy, but for me they were the most wonderful experience ;)
To all of you lots of sun shinning in your souls and magic of the world revealing in anything you might lay your eye on!
All the best from 'Z'
I have finally left the Himalayas behind. After sending my bicycle onwards to the New Zealand I had decided to leave Lhasa by a plane. Tickets out of season were discounted by 50% and so it was a good coincidence. For me it was a perfect way to say good bye to my mountain adventure and finally finish a half year of mountain exploration. The weather was on my side. Blue sky and amusing visibility were the mountains gift for my departure. I had all the Himalayas spread around like in the palm of my hand. Here I understood why they call the Tibet “Roof of the World”. To see all the mountains below is such a sensation, like seeing the ocean curved on the horizon. The only difference is that the horizon is disappearing in the endless snowy peaks. The perfect good bye.
Sichuan province is bordering Tibet and it has very old cultural background. It is mainly famous by its Tea. Sichuan means “four rivers” and yet many rivers are sparkling down the mountains through the province. Local cuisine is quite spicy, using lots of chilli and “Sichuan pepper”. The way of eating specific to this region is the Hot Pot. A big pot in the middle of the table, full of spicy broth and with the flame underneath. You cook the food of your choice by yourself in it. Climate is rather humid and it creates a grey overcast in the area. This is badly affecting the atmosphere of otherwise beautiful city, where the blue skies during the winter time are rare.
Sichuan Opera, Chengdu
CHENGDU - I have landed in Chengdu, the city of Pandas, Sichuan Opera and also known as the “Tea Mecca”. Full with the Teahouses and excellent tea on every corner. No wonder I spent there, with some breaks, almost three weeks, being lazy, enjoying nice people, lots of tea and very good food. That’s what I call relax and recovery time after the mountains, especially after cycling in the Tibet.
Pandas - Can be found in nearby Panda reservation. The Giant Pandas in its population of something like 1000 is one of the most known endangered specie in the world. They are living almost entirely in north and northwest of the Sichuan province and in a few centres around the globe. They are purely vegetarian (95%), eating several kinds of bamboo trees. From about 300 different variations across the China, they eat only 20 of them. Considering their size, they can consume an enormous amount of food a day. Something like 20kg. They spent around 15 hours a day eating and the rest they sleep. Almost symbol for laziness. They are solitary animal, getting together only in the time for reproduction. Very often they give a birth to a two cubs, but only one is to survive. With the care of the human in the centre, the numbers of cubs surviving increased a lot. It is unforgettable experience to watch their routine, way of eating and fooling around.
Giant Pandas, Panda center - Chengdu
EMEI SHAN - mountain (3077 meters) - my most likely last proper mountain for a while ;)
One of the Middle Kingdom’s famous Buddhist mountains with many temples and monasteries.
Buddhist temple, Emei mountain
LESHAM - The city of the Grand Buddha. It is 140 km south away from Chengdu. City itself is situated on the long peninsula created by a big river. Long promenade is lined with many small restaurants, where you can enjoy afternoon sun together with a great view on the river. It seems to be relaxed place, an easy hang out for a few days. I went there to see the Grand Buddha, which is the main attraction there. Though, I was not prepared to pay 130 Juan for it. It might be nice to walk in the park and then descend on the side of the Buddha, but I think the price is a bit overboard. Nevertheless, while walking through the city, we met a nice local guy - Peter - who had told us, how to see the Buddha just for two Juan. And it was exactly what I was looking for. Not only the price, but the location was just right for taking pictures. We took a ferry to a small island on the river, where the locals go for picnics. One of it ends faces the Grand Buddha across the river in 40 meters distance. So you get to see it very well.
The Great Buddha, Lesham
"Yunnan province is situated in the Southern part of China and you can see influence of all the surrounding countries in it. It lies on the borders with Vietnam, Laos, Maymar (Burma) and Tibet. It is place of many variations - from Snowy Mountains in the North to tropical rainforests in the South. It is also famous by its ethnic minority mix. You can find almost 50% of China ethnic minorities here. And the weather is much nicer here then anywhere else, with a blue skies most of the year."
KUNMING - Yunan province, big modern city with great atmosphere and wonderful "Flover and Birds Market" - really original.
Dinner?, local speciality, Kunming
HUATING MOUNTAIN (Western Hills - Kunming) is visited by many locals but fortunately escaped the western tourist hit. Entry to the Huating mountain park is still free and you can visit its temples for a symbolical price of 5 Juan. Same price as the local people pay. I love this area very much. You can find there one of the most spectacular views on Kunming city situated on the other side of the lake and there is also a smaller stone forest in the on the top of the mountain and surrounding hills. You can simply wonder in between the rocks and enjoy anonymous spots with romantic views. Lots of people come there with friends, play games and have picnics. Great day out of the city. Easily reachable by a local bus or you can cycle there as I did. My best recommendations are to cycle in and then stay for a night in the local “villa hotel”, while exploring the surrounding. Out of season you can get generous discount.
Contact Joggling, Huating Temple
A short history about Huating Temple a very beautiful place:
“Huating is named after the Huating Peak of Green Cock Mountain which belongs to the West Mountains near Kunming. The original location of the temple was the villa of a Dali nobleman of Song Dynasty 1453. In 1920, Master Xuyun, a very famous old Buddhist monk, who had been in Zhusheng Temple at Jizu Mountains, was invited by the Provincial Governor Tang Jiyao to take the position of Abbot of Huating Temple. Before the coming of Xuyun, the temple had been so poorly managed as to almost lie waste and was to be sold to some foreigners to open clubs, which had been approved by the local government. Xuyun was deeply disturbed and seriously worried about the future of the temple and he asked Governor Tang to prevent the illegal transaction in time. The main cultural relics kept in Huating Temple are 2 jade Buddha statues presented by Burman Buddhists, a gold-plating Buddha statue presented by Thai Buddhists, a copper statue of the Zhunti Buddhist with 3 eyes and 18 arms stored in the Abbot room, Buddhist Shrine of Master Xuyun, the steles cared with Lin Zexu’s (a famous poet and official of Qing Dynasty) and Guo Muoruo’s (a famous temporary writer and poet) poems.”
Huating Temple, Western Mountains
DALI - Beautiful city, place where the Daoism and TaiChi were born, ...
Anknown Soldier, Dali
JINGHONG - a capital of Xishuangbanna prefecture. It is situated on the Mekong river. Nice and relaxing place with cheap living and excellent food choices. It is easy to get around on foot or rent a bicycle for further explorations. The main change noticeable on the arrival is more humid, rather tropical weather and palm trees lining its streets. There are also two way language signs, both in Chinese and Dai. Dai language looks very curly, something like Thai. And indeed it is very similar to Lao and Northern Thai dialects. If you speak any Thai, it will help you to get around very well. Dai people belong to sect of Hinayana Buddhism and their temples are very different to those of Tibetan or even Chinese one. I spent my New Years Eve in Jinghong. After enjoying an excellent day out of the city and cycling alongside the Mekong river to Ganlanba. Later on I had lots of good food and drinks in one of the local Café Restaurants, celebrating with two German girls and two guys from Holland. There were a few other foreigners and some Chinese around too. Midnight brought cheering with a glass of a local beer and enjoying Chinese explosives. Later that night we all went on exploring the wonders of a Chinese disco. Fun night out.
Little puppies, Kunming
GANLANBA - Small town around 25km from the Jinghong. It is quite an easy bike ride (2 - 3 hours) to this ethnical place lying on the Mekong river. Road itself is busy with traffic, which is a real downside of this spectacular ride. Otherwise you can just enjoy great views on the Mekong and surrounding hills. I really liked a Dai temple at the entrance of Ganglaba and wood carving workshop in its side. Some amusing peaces there covered with dust and spider webs turned this place into a fabulous photo composition. Ganglaba is also famous by its Xishuangbanna Dai Garden, where the “Water Splashing Carnival” is being held. Now as one of the major attractions, lots of nice and young girls (100 by the propaganda) are splashing and dancing every afternoon in the Garden Park. Other things to see in the garden are some peacocks, Buddhist Temple, Princess Well and many nice trees and flowers. You can also take a ferry across to explore other side of the river, small villages, ....
MENGLA - An uninteresting smaller city, but important crossing point on the way to Laos. From here you can get a local bus to Mohan and then cross on food to Laos or you can get on the so called “international bus”, which will take you all the way to Luang Nam Tha (in Laos) for 32 Juan. It is minibus, which goes once a day in both directions and makes the way much easier. Four hours later you depart to a relaxing cit of Luang Nam Tha. You can get Laos visas directly on the border.
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More to follow soon!
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Travel through the Western Tibet, Lhasa, ...
Some monks are still here!!! - Sera Monastery
ROAD BOOK and HIGHLIGHTS(Kashgar - Lhasa, 2.900 km, by bicycle)
Road condition on the Xinjiang - Tibet Highway is generally very rough, with many challenges coming from sandy patches, dust clouds created by passing vehicles (fortunately not too much traffic), rocky sections and always presented corrugations. This all in the altitudes around 4.000 - 5.500 meters, usually more closer to 5.000 meters then lower, with many passes ascending for a ten's of kilometres and strong winds pushing you around in the afternoon. And when you finally feel, it could not get any better - the weather change and brings you some snow to enjoy. During my trip the temperatures at night would drop down to - 15 degrees of Celsius (when a big river next to my tent would turn into a sad patch of ice) and during the day sometimes down to - 5 degrees of Celsius (when the heavy snow clouds would not let the sun to say hello).
After one snowy night
Cycling out of Kashgar was nice, though my bike is more looking like a fully loaded yak then a bicycle (around 35kg). Also my body had to get use to the new exercise. First 250km to Yecheng (Karghilik in Uighur) went on smoothly on a good asphalt road. Some smaller hills, but generally through the very dry or desert areas and patches of greenery, where some Uighur villages could be found. The only really annoying thing on this way was the "Ramadan". There was not much food available during the day nor tea and also people I meet being friendly, but not knowing how to cope with hospitality, when nothing could be offered. Sometimes you could really see they would like to invite me. One even said: "oh, if not Ramadan, we would have a lunch together". And at night, when all the restrictions lift, I was already camping somewhere out of town.
"Have a good journey" - Bey, Bey Kashgar
"Wake up" - drunken Uighur - Kashgar
km 58 - Yengisar - A small town known by its knife production of famous Uighur knifes. They use them in everyday life, households, as a presents or even as a decoration. Every Uighur men has got one, usually hanging of his belt. Some of the smaller ones are carried above ankle or in the shoe. They are good to "slit a throat" as I was told. Sizes, shapes, decoration varies.
Uighur knifes - Yengisar
km 250 - Yecheng (Karghilik in Uighur) - The entry gate to Tibet. Joining the road 219 - Xinjiang - Tibet Highway. Karghilik is another Uighur place, where Han Chinese are just a little minority. For me it was one of the most touching Uighur places. Unfortunately I didn't spend there too much time. Even though I only met extremely friendly people, took lots of pictures and again enjoyed the wonders of the local cuisine.
Yecheng - from the streets
km 469 - second pass 4993 by GPS from one of the road books. A beautiful mountain scenery, all covered by a snow, including the pass. From this point is going to be cycling in high altitudes, with a minimum of 4.000 meters above the sea level. Some 2.000 km later will start slow descend to 3.600 meters in Lhasa.
From the second pass - mine bike
km 493 - Mazar - First more important place after Yecheng, where you can get some cooked food (good Chinese), restock on supplies.
From Mazar the road climbs many high passes and crosses huge high altitude plateaus - like the famous one - "Aksai Chin" - where all the distances are deceiving. It seems to be just a few kilometres, but in fact the mountains on the other side never come closer. Sometimes it takes a whole day to cross one plateau and then you realise, it was around 50 km. Unbelievable?! On the way you see many lakes and beautiful mountain scenery, enjoy a waste space and solitude surrounding you. Sometimes you see a few nomads in a far distance with their animals grazing on almost no grass lands.
Aksai Chin plateau
km 1094 - Domar - a military base and a place to get some food to eat, dormitories and a few shops to restock.
km 1199 - Rutok Xian - quite a big place with shops, bank, restaurants. Situated to a Tibetan part of the Pangon lake (104 km long). Pangong lake is nowadays situated between Tibet (China occupied territory) and Ladakh (under the India rule). From here the really bad road continues all the way to Ali.
From the road - locals waiting for a lift
km 1330 - Ali - Also called Senge Khabab (the Town of the Lion) is the capital of Ali prefecture. Big town, where you can find almost everything. Full of a good restaurants (Chinese, Tibetan, Uighur), public showers (hot water again), bank, excellent food supplies in the supermarkets. It is the first big break point on the way to Lhasa, where you can easily regain energy for the second part of the road.There is also a direct bus to Lhasa (on the North road), making the travelling far more easier.
Ali and its modern architecture
Short patch of a good road after Ali
Small settlements on the plateaus, road views - Tibet
“PILGRIMAGE” is being practised all around the world and it can be found in almost every religion. It is usually a journey connected with some rituals on the way. The most famous might as well be the one to Mecca (Muslims), to Rome (Christians) or the road through the Pyrenees to Santiago de Compostela. For Hindu and Buddhist is one of the most precious ways the visit to Mt. Kailash. Pilgrimage in Tibet is very strongly practised and you can meet pilgrims from all over the country travelling to holy places like - Mt. Kailash, Lake Manasovar, Tirthapuri (hot springs), Yamdrok tso, Nam tso, Sheldrak and many others. Most of the pilgrimages in the Tibet include a circuit - "kora" around the particular place. The act of "kora" is stronger, if it is done at sun rise or sun set, at the time of full moon or if you repeat it 3 times, 13 times, 108 times. Some of the pilgrims also practise "Chaktsal" - the prostration, which is a powerful way to show their devotion. It is sometimes called as a "measuring the earth" as the followers move only by their body length each time. Lying down flat on the ground and then getting up and walking the distance of their body. This they repeat all the way. Pilgrimage for many Tibetans also means accumulating merit (sonam) and good luck (tashi).
km 1526 - Moincer - bigger town, great food, entry gate to "Tirthapari" pilgrimage and its hot springs. It is being said - no holly pilgrimage to Mt. Kailash is completed without visiting Tirthapari and having bath in its hot springs. They are closely associated with the "Guru Rimpoche". Pilgrims traditionally bath there after completing the circuit on Mt. Kailash. They are located 9 km of the main road from Moicer. Continuing on from from Moincer it is only 66 km to Darchen and Mt. Kailash (still one day bike ride though).
Views along the road, Tibet
Traditional way of transport, Darchen
km 1592 - Darchen - Entry gate to Mt. Kailash Pilgrimage. One of the holiest mountains in the world. There are a shops, restaurants, hotels and dorms available, but generally speaking, it is a dirty and ugly place. All town looks like one big tip, with rubbish piling everywhere. Not really a wonderful entry gate to such a holly place you would imagine. Though, there is a recent huge development happening. Many new houses are being build and I guess they will pave it soon too. Yet, another one to be made presentable towards the forthcoming Olympic games.
Mt. Kailash at sun set from the sky burial site
Mt. Kailash - the North face
Mt. KAILASH AND ITS “KORA” (circuit)
This place was considered as a myth for a long time in Europe. When the first news came about a holy mountain somewhere in the Asia, with a perfect shape, snow capped all year round and with beautiful twin lakes nearby - people could not believe it. Only in 19th century, one European traveller made the difficult journey through the Himalayas and there he found it. Exactly as described - not a myth at all, but reality!
Mt. KAILASH (6714 meters) - Has all year round snow capped peak. Called Kang Rimpoche in Tibetan (Precious Jewel of Snow). Its four main walls match the cardinal points of the compass. It is one of the most important and holiest mountains in the world and it has been an object of worship for four main religions:
1. HINDU (Shiva, the destroyer),
2. BUDDHIST (Demchok, in Sanskrit = Samvara) - a wrathful manifestation of Sakyamuni (equivalent of the Shiva)
3. JAINS of India,
4. BON - sacred Yungdrung Gutseg - Nine Stacked Swastika Mountain.
Pilgrims, Mt. Kailash kora
The circuit around the mountain offers the possibility of liberation within three lifetimes and also one lifetime of your karma for each round. The circuit itself is about 52 km long, with the highest point to cross - Drolma La (5630 metres). It's nice to take the way in 3 relaxing days, but it can be done as short as 15 hours. This is usually done only by Tibetan pilgrims, who are repeating the kora for many times. They almost look like they were flying around. Also I feel I could make it in one day with no problems, but I chose the slow option to fully enjoy the place/passing pilgrims, ... It took me three days with just a few hours to walk every day carrying my big bag. Most of the pilgrims do it very light or have their stuff carried by yak.
On the Kailash kora
FACTS ABOUT THE MOUNTAIN
Number four plays an important role in all the events connected with the mountain. As I mentioned, its four main walls match the compass and they all have very special name: 1. South face - Lapis Lazuli, 2. West face - Ruby, 3. North face - Gold and 4. East face - Crystal. Mt. Kailash is also a place, where 4 big Asian rivers begins - Sutlej, Karnali, Brahmaputra (Yarlung Tsangpo) and Indus.
On the kora, Mt. Kailash
km 1614 - Barga - small and dusty place, entry point for the Lake Manasovar. If you cycling from Darchen, take a part of the kora - circuit first (anti clock wise) and then follow a small road across the bridge. It will safe you one river crossing and also quite a few kilometres. Eventually you will join the main road again, somewhere before Barga. And the most important, the road is really nice! In Barga we stopped for a yak butter tea and played a few games of biliar, with excellent panorama of the Mt. Kailash in the background.
Playing billiard in Barga, Mt. Kailash still in the background
15 km off the main road - Manasovar Lake (4560 meters) - also known in Tibetan as “Mapham Yum tso” - the Victorious Lake. The circuit (kora) around the lake is 110 kilometres long and take 3 to 5 days. Most travellers/pilgrims head to "Chin Monastery" first and starts their kora from there. We had skipped it and instead went off road towards the town of "Hor Qu". Believing in the existence of kind of a dirt road, making the kora possible to access by a jeep ride (I have red it somewhere), we arrived at the lake shore nearby the ruins of the "Chekip Monastery". Now only represented by a large chorten. Mt. Kailash is still visible in the background. There are a high cliffs by its side, with long prayer flags and many caves/hermitages. Some of them are so big and well equipped, they have become a permanent houses for a monks. Other are just as basic as a sheep skin on the floor for a meditation and stonewall covering the entrance. I have squatted into one of the larger one, situated high in the cliff face. Apart from the beautiful view I was astound by its comfort. There were a several rooms, wood and yak shit storage (full), teapots, thermoses, stove, tsampa, kitchen stuff, oils, incense, blankets, ..... On the walls religious pictures, thangas, praying wheel and beads next to the meditation seat. It all looked as the monk had just left for a short walk (and maybe he did :) Really nice place to spend a few years. As the road did not exist our expectation for the next day ride were not very happy. We pitched up the tents on above the lake shore with view all around and enjoyed this magical place. Our solitude was not meant to last too long. On our return from the caves, two nomad tents were erected nearby and few horses were grazing around. Those Tibetan pilgrims were walking the lake kora and kind of really belonged to the place. So it did not loose its atmosphere. They were curious and friendly.
Lake Manasovar
Manasovar Tso kora is one of the most important pilgrimages in Tibet. The lake represents female wisdom aspect of enlighment and is a symbol of good fortune and fertility. It is said that circuit (kora) of Lake Manasovar can result in spontaneous buddhahood.
Nomads, Manasovar Tso (lake)
On the road :)
km 1639 - Hor Qu - another ugly town, built in the Chinese style. Despite all, still important stop on the Manasovar Lake. You can hire horses for the kora here, restock on supplies or find some hot food in the local restaurants. After lunch there, we cycled over the smaller pass to make some more kilometres before sun set. Soon after we were forced to camp quickly near the road by coming snow storm. Once in the tent and with the stove running, it was all good. In the morning we "very much enjoyed" (a word starting with F.... was the first thing that come on my tongue, when I opened my tent that morning. And same I heard once Lars peaked from his tent later on) a couple of centimetres of the fresh snow.
View before Raka, South and North road joining
km 1873 - Paryang - place with good Chinese food, some hotels and shops. There are many nomad tents on the plains before and after this town. Also impressive sand dunes can be seen along the way. It is nice to see all the livestock (animals) on the surrounding planes. Some areas are rather sad, when you see Chinese attempts to settle down the nomads presented by many houses through the plains or shabby/dusty villages build next to the road. Most of them empty at the moment, but this will probably change in the future.
km 1945 - side road to New Zhongba - new Chinese style city with many shops, good restaurants, Internet, petrol station and the asphalt road (7km) connecting it with the main road (dirt road).
Behind the hotel - New Zhongba
km 2109 - Saga - Important town where you can find everything - shops, Internet, bus connection to Lhatse, Lhasa, many restaurants, big hotels, hot shower. For many cyclists also the place, where they take the turn (shortcut) towards the Nepal, joining the "Friendship Highway" some 180 kilometres later - near Tingri. Tingri is one of the bigger places in the Everest region. My way took me to Lhasa instead.
Billiard is everywhere - streets of Saga
km 2180 - Raka - small place with a few shops and restaurants. It gain its importance, because the North Road from Ali is joining the South Road just a few kilometres before the town. The North Road is used by most of the trucks and also the direct bus from Ali to Lhasa goes there.
km 2210 - Beginning of road construction, really bad road (the worst since Kashgar) for next 150 kilometres or so. Almost all the way to Lhatse.
Also a way to get through the really shitty road
km 2463 - Lhatse (4050 metres) - Finally joining the "Friendship Highway". Bigger town, but not very interesting. Nice asphalt road starts from here and there is only one high pass on the way to Lhasa left.
km 2615 - Shigatse (3900 metres) - Second biggest city in Tibet, after Lhasa. The capital of Tsang province. Shigatse is known as the seat of the Panchen Lama, who is traditionally based in Tashilhunpo monastery. Nowadays it has been rapidly expanding Chinese town, with many new buildings, shops, restaurants, ... There is daily bus connection to Lhasa. Altitude is slowly lowering and the weather is becoming milder. The road follows the "Yarlung Tsangpo" river, also known as the Brahmaputra in India.
From the road - Tibet
km 2884 -
LHASA - The capital of Tibet and traditional home of the Dalailama (Potala). It is an ancient city full of religion, pilgrims and tourists, with a dominant castle of the Dalailamas and several big monasteries in the neighbourhood. First news about Lhasa becoming a capital of the Tibet is from around 650 AD, but its status had changed through the following centuries. It has stayed in its status since the fifth Dalailama built the Potala palace and re-established Lhasa as a capital in 1642. There are several circuits/koras in Lhasa. One is around the Potala palace. Other called The Barkhor circles the heart of Lhasa and Tibetan old town - the Jokhang temple. Linghor kora - traditional route circling the old city and it is almost 8 km long. It does incorporate the new Chinese developments nowadays as it use the old route walked by the pilgrims for centuries. Main places in Lhasa are:
Lhasa - Potala palace (from the back side)
Lhasa - Praying Wheels
BARKHOR SQUARE - traditional place of protests, pilgrimage, entrance to Jokhang temple and Barkhor kora. This is the real Tibetan heart of Lhasa. It creates border between old city and new Chinese development with a large streets, modern shops, restaurants. On one side are all the designers, famous brands shops and with the Jokhang temple, old city on the other. Circuit is full of sellers with traditional clothes, jewellery, incense, thangas, prayer flags and beads. There are always many pilgrims walking around and quite a lot of people prostrate. Along the way you can find several small temples and nunneries. Pilgrims and the smell of burned Juniper make it into a magical place.
Prostration, Barkhor Kora, Lhasa
Praying, Jokhang Temple, Lhasa
Barkhor Kora, Lhasa
RAMOCHE - Is smaller, but very interesting temple in Lhasa. At the time of my stay, they had many ceremonies and also the sand mandala there. All these were happening as the result of a bigger repair works. One day I was lucky to see there a Guru Rimpoche (the head lama) - a very interesting old men. There is also small temple/chapel on the side of Ramoche called Tsepak Lhakhang - always filled with many pilgrims. Its atmosphere is indeed magical. Ramoche is a sister temple to the Jokhang, originally built to host the “Jowo Shakyamuni” image, before it got moved to the Jokhang.
Monks, Ramoche Temple
JOKHANG - one of the oldest and most religious places. It hosts the “Jowo Shakyamuni” - the most revered Buddha image in Tibet. A long cue of pilgrims waiting for access the Jowo is all the time circling inside temple and it’s definitely worth it to wait with them. There are also always many pilgrims praying in front of the temple. No matter if it is opened or closed. For the Tibetans it represents the living heart of their culture and therefore the time doesn’t make any difference. From its roof you can see roofs of an old town, surrounding mountains and also the Potala Palace.
Tibetan, Jokhang Temple
Prayer wheels, Jokhang Temple
POTALA PALACE - Is stunning architectural creation, dominant on the hill. Nowadays surrounded by an entire newly build Chinese city. The old Tibetan city itself is situated around the Jokhang temple. It used to be a lively place, residence of Dalai Lamas. Nowadays it’s rather sad museum. It is being recognised as a national heritage by Chinese, but this is quite a recent movement. It used to be left to deteriorate in past. Now it is full of Chinese tourists, who come to admire the beauty of its architecture. Photography is strictly forbidden and you can see many signs to remind you about that. And in case you cannot read, each room is heavily guarded. You are not allowed to bring in lighters or matches, but my two knifes were perfectly ok. Reopened to public in 1980 and since then it went through some renovations. The most recent development is happening in the park behind the palace, which is being fully rebuilt. One of the main reasons for that is forthcoming of the Olympic Games in 2008 and also I heard Unesco had some talk about it with the Chinese government too.
Potala Palace at night, Lhasa
Potala Palace inside, Lhasa
Potala Palace - On the way up
LUKHANG TEMPLE - A temple on the small island on the lake behind the Potala palace.
Lukhang Temple, Lhasa
CHANGPO RI (Iron Mountain) - used to have one of the principal medical colleges (Mentsikhang), but now is dominated by a steel telecom tower (mast). Though there are very beautiful rock carvings on a cliff there. Not much visited by tourists, just a local people there.
Rock carvings, Changpo Ri
Lhasa - from the city kora
AROUND LHASA
There are several big and very important monasteries around Lhasa. Some of them are in the suburbs others in a day trip distance from the city. Those three mentioned bellow are the biggest and the most important of them all.
DREPUNG - Some 8km from the Jokhang, used to be one of the largest monasteries (means “rice heap”). Founded in 1416 by a disciple of Tsongkhapa. It has four main colleges devoted to “Ngagpa” - Tantric study, “Loseling” - Logic, “Gomang” and “Deyang” - religious study. There is also an interesting debating courtyard, but I felt about it as being rather a theatre performance (also with many tourists around) then a real religious discussion. It used to host up to 10.000 monks. Now they are allowed to have only something like 800 heads.
Debate, Dhrepung Monastery
Kitchen, Dhrepung Monastery
SERA - lies 5 km from Jokhang temple. It also belongs to the Gelupa order. It used to have up to 5.000 monks, but now you can find only a few hundreds there. It has a really good debating courtyard. Founded by another disciple of Tsongkhapa in 1419. Sera kora (circuit) is great, containing many stunning views. You can also climb the mountains behind and it is good starting point for a further trekking. Generally speaking, it is very lively place busting with real atmosphere. Together with the Ganden it would be my most favourite monastery in a whole Tibet.
SERA UTSE - retreat place, high above the monastery. There are no tourists there, just a few pilgrims, but really great place with very nice keepers. Of course I climbed up there as I saw it from bellow. A small boy (around 6 years old) took care of me and showed me around. Then he invited me into their hose, with the older keeper hosted me with tea and we learned some English together. I enjoyed a few hours up there with them.
Sera Monastery
Guardian, Sera Utse Monastery
A boy in Sera Utse Monastery
GANDEN (4500 meters) - around 50 km from Lhasa. I made my way there cycling. All the way to he village below the monastery. Here I parked my bike and went for a steep climb up to the monastery. There is a road just being finished, but I much more like the walk. You also meet lots of Tibetan pilgrims in this way. You have time to enjoy a great views on the surrounding mountains and nearby valleys. Ganden was build as a first Gelupa monastery in 1409 (means Joyous) and it is also named as the Western Paradise (known as Tushita), the home of Jampa the Future Buddha. It is one of the most beautiful and friendly monasteries. Come around the noon, when the tour groups leave and also most of the pilgrims start to descent to catch their last busses to Lhasa. Then you can slowly browse many temples and enjoy quiet, magical atmosphere of the place and the surrounding mountains. I was lucky to experience a “real” and most powerful debate in my life, with the stunning mountain scenery in the background. I was the only intruder!
Ganden Monastery
Ganden Monastery, surrounding mountains
THOUGHTS ABOUT THE TIBETAN CULTURE IN LHASA AND IN GENERAL
In this part I am trying to summarise my experience with the Tibet and its culture. The view point is mainly taken on Lhasa and its inhabitants. This is because I feel; there is really big difference between people living in Lhasa and the Nomads in the very remote areas. Not only in the lifestyle, but also in education and Chinese influence. Yet, it also includes the view on the whole culture as many pilgrims cruise the country and brings their experience with them.
There is no way to keep old Tibet preserved as it was. The change is inevitable and also needed. Though NOT in the way as Chinese see and apply it!
Signs in Lhasa
Tibet itself is still very little developed in some areas, especially where the Nomads still practise the traditional way of life. Of course, there are other parts, where the development took off very fast - like Lhasa, where the development is so fast it might sometimes be too difficult to integrate the change to the mentality.
Lhasa is one big melting pot, where new and old is mixing together inseparably parallel. Like a spirals crossing its ways - sometimes on its own, sometimes together. Lhasa is also an easy place to hang out, full of culture and life. Mix between Han Chinese, Tibetans and pilgrims from all over the country. Pilgrims are easy to spot as they are usually traditionally dressed. And of course, there are some westerners there. In November were not so many of them, because it is out of season and even Lhasa is getting cold. I was told there is not much snow usually. But the surrounding mountains get quite a lot of it. Face of Lhasa is changing very fast. Vast Chinese influence with modern development, buildings, technology, new shops and simplified working life style is what you can see on every step. All the developments and especially the modern technology are changing the native Tibetans faster then ever. Many migrants from all over the country are seeking here new opportunities and better lifestyle here. Competing in unequal fight with Han Chinese, whose migration is supported by the Chinese government.
Watching some Tibetans - let’s say around 30 years old is the group. The age, when they became mature and started to contribute to a normal life. Usually having started a family and incorporate Buddhism together with tradition into the everyday life. It’s them walking on the street partly dressed in the modern closes, with a backpack and shopping in one hand and with the praying beads in the other. They have started to understand their role in the society and found the place for a cultural heritage in their life. Younger Tibetans are fighting for their identity like any other youngsters. Though for them is much harder to do so.
On one hand, there is a pressure of tradition, religion and national feeling - being occupied and restricted in their homeland. They hear many stories from their parents and have somebody from the family badly treated by the regime or escaped in the exile. Also, there are many restrictions applied if you are ethnic Tibetan. Like, you can get a passport to travel - Chinese, of course - but as you are ethnic Tibetan a different rules do apply. Han Chinese can easily travel to Nepal, even drive there. Ethnic Tibetan with the same passport can not cross the border. And if so, then it is very complicated.
The other side forming their personality is pressure from the modern world. All the new things - mobiles, comfort, disco, drinking, more open lifestyle - easier life. Education which suppresses the religion and all the cultural believes. The education which tries to breed atheists. Many of the younger ones don’t believe in “God” - Buddha, yet still, they can not help themselves wondering, what is behind. Man have fallen into creating new way of believe - believe in being good and doing good things (for a good Karma), and doing so, feeling good for the inner self. They still go to the temple to pray. But not praying to the same Gods as their parents. They pray to find their inner peace in the place of tradition, the place where believes even for non believers could be expressed and wished for, thanked for, …
And when they grow older and become more mature, they hold upon the tradition more and also understand it more. Not being same as their parents, but keeping Tibet with its culture in their hearts.
Traditional way of living, with the prayer on the lips and spinning prayer wheel in the hand - especially preserved by an older generation. More traditional families keeps their children fully involved and so passing on tradition continues.
Offerings for dead person, Lhasa streets
Then you have all the pilgrims coming from every corner of the country, bringing in ancient way of pilgrimage, prayers and clothing. They keep all the others to remember, what it means to be the Tibetan. Some of them never seen a foreigner before and in the way, they are so natural in their behaviour.
Generally speaking, Tibetans are rather reserved and it takes a time to break into their closer circles, to be accepted as a part of their friends’ circles. Yet, they are very curious, with high self esteem and confidence - that is why there is so much stress on ego lowering in the Tibetan Buddhist tradition.
I found it hard to make friends with them sometimes, because they are so reserved. But sometimes, when you break the ice and they accept you, they are very sharing and carrying. The nicest people I met were around the Mt. Kailash, while I was doing my kora/pilgrimage. Two old ladies who gave me sweets before the kora; the family I stayed the first night on the kora. They are the most memorable people of them all. It might be, because the holy kora brings people more together. They have something in common. Something, which seems to be so important for the both sides.
Lhasa streets - No 1
Lhasa streets - No 2
Lhasa streets - No 3
Buddhist culture in Tibet: I found it very different to what I thought it would be. Not real expectations, but rather a surprise that came. Especially compared with my experience of the Buddhism in Ladakh and some other places of the Tibetan refugees in India. In Tibet all the religion had been very much regulated by the government and there are specific numbers of monks allowed in each monastery. Sometimes I wander, why would you want to become a monk here? The older ones, who were monks before, are of course predestined, but probably the most watched one as well. And the younger ones? For some, it is they way of showing devotion to their country and culture, for others the struggle with a Chinese rule. In some remote areas a way to escape the routine and learn, how to read and write (like a sheppard boy I know from Dharamsala. After 6 years of being monk, he left to exile and being lucky - he is now in McLeod Ganj.) Many monks I found more living the normal life, than trying to progress on the way of the enlightment.
Also my feelings about many monasteries were quite mixed. The strength of old tradition, retreat centres and real masters are now much rarer and in general quite hidden to the outside world. Rather in remote regions, where even a Chinese influence has a long way to go. Most of the places in Lhasa I found a bit more as tourist attraction then the place of a real devotion. My favourite is definitely Sera Gompa - the very lively place and in some remote parts very devoted. But the Ganden Gompa (50km out of Lhasa) is my most favourite place of all Tibet. A beautiful place with real monks and monastery life. Partly restored, but with many ruins still around. They are left overs after the heavy artillery shooting, which is still pretty visible and years of ignorance to the national heritage. Many pilgrims are passing through and also some foreigners. But they usually fast track it. After mid day, when is a time for them to get back on the bus, there is nobody left. Also most of the pilgrims left for the last busses to Lhasa.
In my eyes the real life of the Buddhism in Tibet is done/practised by its ordinary people. Not by monks, but by the ordinary people. It is them, who shows the strong devotion and carry on the tradition and the traditional culture. Monks and monasteries are often too influenced and restricted by the Chinese rule, spies, …. They represent poor fragment of what the religion used to be before.
But the pilgrims, travelling from one part of country to another, that is a different story. Practising traditional ways, turning their mani wheels, building cairns as the pass and chanting the mantras. They are the real religious and cultural inheritance of the Tibet. With them the Tibet lives and dies. They are the most cherishing (enriching) experience, the real heart of the Tibet.
Thinking of some vivid example and nice memory of Tibetan life, I would like to share the one of an old women walking around and turning a big praying wheel with a small doggy (Tibetan palace dog), which is circling with here many times round - a beautiful example of devotion! (And it is good even for a dog, for his karma ;)
With the tigers - Lhasa - house paintings
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“A tear had dropped for country ruled and crushed.
Tied with the tradition, but riding on a modern horse.
The country where spirit floats and body dies and
where the happiness holds hands with pain.
The tear had dropped for country and its people.”
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KHUNJERAB PASS CROSSING - PART 2
It was not much hassle to cross the border and then we enjoyed a beautiful views on the mountains in Khunjerab National Park. Also Chinese border was without mayor delays and friendly enough not bags checking, so we passed to Taskurgant in the broad sunlight. Here we decided not to stay and took a shared jeep directly to Kashgar (100Juan). A bit pricey, but fast and comfortable.
Jurts on Kara Kul Lake
He stopped for the taking pictures and on Kara Kul lake. We arrived to Kashgar before midnight Beiging time (10 pm Kashgar time, 9 pm Pakistan time). All China operates on the Beiging time, but all locals use the Kashgar time. The only official places taking Beiging time are banks, buses, ... Great dinner in the local Uyghur restaurant has nicely finished the day.
Uyghurs near Khunjerab Pass
KASHGAR
Crossing onwards from the Pakistan, Uighur town of Kashgar was not as much of a difference. Though the Chinese influence is quite visible. Lots of changes came with the new train line a few years ago and of course lot more Han Chinese come with it too. The old city of Kashgar is slowly disappearing, making a space for the new development. Typical Chinese invasion - rebuild everything with an ugly modern houses, straight streets, big squares. They even have a sightseeing wheel - similar to London Eye there, overlooking the place with nothing to see. Its rather rusty look is not reassuring of its use and even safety.
Hello MR. Mao :) - Kashgar
Kashgar is famous for it's cuisine and honestly, after the Pakistan, the choice is just a great. Uighur food is tasty, consisting of many varieties. Especially focused on meat. But not only, you can find some nice pastries, local nan breads, cold noodles on the streets (local speciality). A bit shocking, but very popular are cooked goat heads or broth made out of them. All the bazaar areas and traditional crafts workshops meet at the big square with the main mosque. It is considered to be one of the biggest mosques in China. Nearby you can watch a chess players sitting under the trees and having their daily match.
Local Uighur bakery - Kashgar
I am in China. Hmm, rather a Muslim - Uighur area minority, which is very different to China mainland. And how to get from there to Tibet? Well, why not on the bicycle. Xinjiang - Tibet Highway is officially prohibited to tourists, especially independent travellers. Nowadays yo can pay a bit of money and get on the jeep organised by a travel agencies (around 1700 Juan from Kashgar). This one of the worlds most difficult road takes you almost 2.900km away from Kashgar. All the way to Lhasa.
Giant - cycling shop in Kashgar
So I went to check out one big bicycle shop - Giant Store - in Kashgar to see the possibilities for my cycling adventure. And a few hours later I left the place with a brand new mountain bike fitted with back panniers and everything else I could find for my journey. Still not being completely sure, what I am really doing I took my new "treasure" back to the hotel. Next few days I spent enjoying the cycling around the Kashgar, shopping supplies for the way and thinking, how on earth will I fit all my stuff on the bike. I could not get any front bags and so I eventually found a solution. I fitted one of the baskets there, making my bike really unique. The mechanic from the Giant Store was just holding his head, but he was really nice guy, who helped me a lot. And you might know my affection for a Crumpler logo (sorry Ta). Having a few stickers around I found a great way, how to personalise my new toy - a funky yellow sticker with a black drawing of a man on the front of the basket.
Fruit seller, Kashgar
KASHGAR - (1290 meters) One of the main trading posts on the silk road and melting post for all surrounding minorities of Tajiks, Uzbeks, Han Chinese and Uighurs - which holds the majority. Recent Han Chinese migration is slowly changing the numbers and Uighurs might soon become a minority in their own place.
Local craftsmen - Kashgar
Old town streets - Kashgar
Uighur chicks - Kashgar
Chicken? - Kashgar
Ohhh, that is good!
Preparing for the future travel - Kashgar
Pakistan a beautiful country full of friendly people, amusing scenery and tradition.
WAGAH - INDIA/PAKISTAN BORDER CROSSING
Crossing from India to Pakistan is possible through the Wagah border, which is about 25 km from Amritsar - the city of Sikh's & The Golden Temple. It is easy to get on a local bus to Atari. From here it is an easy distance by the cycle rickshaw (15RS) to the border. Crossing itself is just fun. The bureaucracy between the countries is really ridiculous. Especially India's paranoid approach, with all the forms and many check - like anyone could disappear in between there. You have to pass about 600 meters through the border zone. Stopping at least 3 times on the Indian side for a various reasons. If you come as a backpacker, there are usually no delays. Once you get to Pakistan side, you only enter your passport, take a small ticket with number, pass it to a soldier when you exiting the gate and you are out. No fiddling, no bother.
Together - Gilgit
The most interesting (apart from the famous flag lowering ceremony) is to watch a stream of porters on both sides carrying a cargo , which they off loaded from the truck on one side and after passing the border zone it again gets loaded on another truck on another side. Each country has got a different coloured uniforms and they carry all boxes to a dividing line. Here they swap a box with their colleagues. Being very careful not to step over the line. To make sure this is being fully followed you have many soldiers closely watching on each side. And if a careless one steps accross the line? Well, a lots of shouting immediately follows.
Smoking "Hukker" on the street - Lahore
PESHAWAR
The city with so much feelings. Buzzy multicultural mix coming almost from the fairytale. The old city has very special atmosphere with its old bazaars, full of smells - spice, vegetable, meat and dirt. This city with old Persian Afghan influence was a very important place on the silk road and caravans had stopped there for ages. You can still find many caravanserai's's - usually a big house with a simple accommodation, where the camel caravans stopped for a night and merchants sipped tea and exchanged stories from their travelling. One street leading from a Kabul gate was named after those travellers - "A story tellers street" Old city used to be closed behind the wall and twelve gates led into it. Nowadays only a few of them are left, with the most famous Kabul gate. For me the most magical in the city is to find a little hideaway with old samovar and sip "Kawa" (green tea with cardamon) with the locals. I have found two beautiful places like this. One is in old caravanserai house just about 30 meters from the exit of the cinema road in the first floor. When you walk, you will see a few "keer" places on your right and on your left in the first floor a two big samovars with lots of teapots around are standing out of the wall under the roof. A small entry door will take you upstairs of this A... Hotel/tearoom. Another one is hidden in one of the houses in the spice bazaar in its yard. There are a big scales weighing almonds, rosins, nuts, ..... and in the opposite corner on his "throne" next to the samovars an old men is making tea. A throne place is not just an expression. You have to see yourself a place they put the samovars on, where the tea men is sitting and making all the Kava and Chai into the most ugly/beautiful teapots. Some would call them a broken, aged junk others an antiquity and I know a few foreigners who were begging the owners to get one (not a new one, but the one with the history).
Peshawar - tea place
People there are extremely nice. Many times I have ended up not paying for my tea, as they referred to me as the guest or somebody else just paid for me in the tea shop. I got given bread in the morning and sweets in the sweet shop. Really hospitable people. But of course you have to be careful, there are some not really good individuals, who tries to help you out of your cash. Mainly all the freelance guides, who in the end just take you to some shop to drink tea, .... It is no problem not too buy, but sometimes you feel obliged like giving something back to the guide for all his effort showing you many things around.
AK47? Cheap men! Local tribal men near Peshawar, Pakistan.
And also beware people offering you visit of the "smugglers bazaar" or Kyber Pass. You should really trust the person for it and don't pay more then 300RS for the Smuglers bazaar - a place to see a hashis, heroin, some bad quality fake notes, opium and some guns - AK47, Chinese pistol and a pen gun. That is all. More you can see in Darra - cyber pass village, where many other guns are copied and you can shoot some rounds there. Smugglers bazaar has also Heineken beer and whisky. The best for visiting this place is, if you want some alcohol, beer or hashis to smoke
Wanna steak? Peshawar
RAWALPINDI/ISLAMABAD
From the streets - Rawalpindi
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LAHORE
In the bushes - Lahore
Peaking over :) - Lahore
Cinderella in the garbage - Lahore
From the prayers - Lahore
GILGIT
Polo - tradition from Pakistan - Gilgit
NORTH PAKISTAN - TREKKING
That is the way to travel - Hunza Valley
Morning frost - Rash Peak trek (5049m)
In the mountains - Hunza Valley
View from ... - Rakaposhi in the background
On the glacier - Rakaposhi base camp trek
Good view - Rash Peak trek (5049m)
Glacier views - Rash Peak trek (5049m)
Lady Finger - Hunza Valley mountains
Baltit Fort - Karimabad - Hunza Valley
Minapin Glacier - Rakaposhi in the background
Avalanche - Minapin Glacier
Relaxing - Minapin Glacier - Rakaposhi (7788m) in the background
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HUNZA VALLEY - NORTH PAKISTAN
Spantik, also called the Golden Peak (7027m)
PASSU/SOST AND KHUNJERAB PASS CROSSING - PART 1
Hitching from Karimabad to Passu with two Germans Alex and Bianca. Short ride on the tractor to Ganesh, then on the top of Pakistan truck (just above the cabin) to Gulmit (the best sightseeing ride ever) and then on a Chinese Mercedes long truck to Passu, where because of the incredible speed (fastest truck ever! with one eye Chinese driver) and not to friendly weather we decided to stay on the truck all the way to China. The driver did not speak any English, but we understood he is going directly to China.
On the Chinese truck, heading to Sost
In Sost a border police had ordered us down as it is impossible to pass on the truck to China. The only way is on the government Natco bus (1500RS) to Taskargent. So we have ended up stuck in Sost, where really is nothing to do or see. Weather was not great and I was ready to leave Pakistan. Also I was heading just towards the Passu in the morning, the decision was fast. We bought bus ticket for the next day morning and started to enjoy the Sost.
Sost - Pakistan border
We met a guy I knew from Madina in Gilgit and he gave us a free ride around on his jeep. Also offered us some dried apricots. "Pakistan Ramadan" he was laughing and told us about the apple he also has in his car. For some Muslims is difficult not to comply with the religious rules in the community, but they are not so orthodox and always find their personal way around. In the search for a Hunza/Chitral hat for my friend we spoke with many locals and tried to buy their hats. It was great fun and in the end we found almost good one which would fit on the "big headed" German - Alex :) We also met a commander of custom and narcotics department in the evening. It was nice to see him in the morning on the customs. He did very quick check of our luggages and we were free to goo. The story continues in "China 06 South/West".
Through the borders, China-Pakistan friendship
Khunjerab National Park
Khunjerab National Park
Amritsar - The place of Sikhs and the Golden Temple. City itself is rather hot and dusty at this time of the year. The easiest way is to take a cycle rickshaw around. Those incredible guys pedal their small vehicles thought the heat for quite a small amount of money. I always have to admire them and often I feel quite exploiting them. On the other hand, to use their service means to let them to earn money for living. So it is a bit bewitched circle. India - the country of shocking contrasts, poverty & richness - with its mayor religious drive and social closeness.
Rickshaw sleeping, Amritsar
Anyway, Amritsar seems to be a bit more organized place. This is probably thanks to the Sikhs. They stress more on education and the whole community is very close. City bus station is one of the wonders of India - big, quite clean and numbered, with the destinations written in English & Urdu. Apart from the bus station, the main highlight of the city of course is "The Golden Temple" holly place of Sikhs and a beautiful architectural wonder. Especially when lighted in the night. Sikhs are extremely friendly people and you can sleep in the temple for a free up to three nights. Although some donations are expected.
The Golden Temple inside, Amritsar
They also have one of the biggest kitchens in the world. Every day they cook for more then 10.000 people and this amount doubles over the weekend. The food they provide is basic (chapati, dal, ...), but it is also free. There is no distinction in any way there - anybody is welcome to stay or eat.
Night view on the Golden Temple
There are always many people walking around the lake. In its center is situated the Golden Temple. Sikhs do consider the lake to be full of a "nectar" and they drink, bath, ... in it. In the temple you can find their holly book, which is carried in every morning and out every evening. It spend its night on the shore in one of the surrounding buildings. During the day a recitation from the book is transmitted by an amplifier. It sounds more like a singing rather then reading. For me this is typical example of the Muslim part in the Sikh religion.
The Golden Temple
Washing bowls, the Golden Temple, Amritsar
The Golden Temple is nice and relaxing place. I like to sit near the lake and watch the worshipers passing by.
Just wanted to say hello and nicely ask, if you could sign my guest book. So that I also know, who makes all the hits on my website. As there is around 14.000 hits since last 5 months (time of its creation). I know, it takes lots of time to do so, but I hope some of you can find this time.
MANY THANKS
'Z'
Today (18-8-06) I had this amusing opportunity to photograph the Dalailama, while he was teaching Dharma in his residence in Mcleod Ganj. I want to thanks all people involved to help me pass through the obstacles and obtain the press pass for this very special occasion. Especially many thanks to "the Argentimes" - independent English newspaper in Argentina!
The Dalailama - teachings - August 14-18 (2006) Mcleod Ganj
The Dalailama - teachings - August 14-18 (2006) Mcleod Ganj
The Dalailama - teachings - August 14-18 (2006) Mcleod Ganj
The Dalailama - teachings - August 14-18 (2006) Mcleod Ganj
PROGRAM OF THE TEACHINGS: Chapter 9 - on the perfection of Wisdom from Shantideva's 'A Guide to the Bodhisattva's Way of Life' (Chodjung), along with the teaching on Gyalsay Thogmay Sangpo's 'The 37 Practises of a Bhodhisattva' (Lak-Len-So-din-ma) and chapters 18, 22, 24 & 26 from Nagarjuna's 'The Fundamentl Wisdom of the Middle Way' (Uma Tsawa Sherab)
What else to say about the Mcleod Ganj (Dharamsala)? Well, all my stay went in the sign of his holiness Dalailama. I have visited the teachings for all five days. My spare time I spent in my favourite Tibetan restaurant called "Tara Cafe". Of course, always remembering my friend Tara, who also enjoys food and who would love it here. And then lots of Internet and photo uploading, so that you can all enjoy now with me. I have also went to see the Karmapa, but this was nowhere near the experience of seeing the Dalailama. Karmapa's personality and public appearance had not really developed yet (hopefully) and there was also too many people in line to get a red string to make this experience something special (at least for me!) And third meeting here was with the Tenzing Palmo - an American women, who had become a nun in her early age and who did 12 years retreat in the cave in Himalayas. She is very interesting person and it was very pleasant to listen her talk. Apart from that, I saw again a movie "Himalaya" which I love and also I managed to see a "Davinci Code". Rest of my time, when it was not raining (still monzun spreading its arms here), I was hanging out with Tibetans.
Kashmir is considered to be a beautiful - some call it "Heaven on the Earth". And yes, it's so different to the in Kashmir then in Ladakh. From a dry and rocky country you come to an amusing greenery. Higher mountains keeps snow all year round and it mix with the green of the grass and trees in summer. There are many trees everywhere and coming from a rocky & dry mountains (which I really love) you just cannot help it and you have to keep staring! It takes a while, before this amusement wears off and your mind rest and eyes starts slowly browsing around.
Hazratbal Mosque - Srinagar - Dal Lake
After arriving to Srinagar (capital of Kashmir) I of course stayed on the houseboat. This I believe is really the must, when you come there. At least for one night. It is so beautiful to be cut of the usual surrounding with all its noise, streets, pollution and also cars, tracks, walking people. You are left with a boats, water, birds and nice views. Sometimes enriched by a passing "shikara" (local small transport boat with a shelter like small roof). They can carry anything you might imagine - from a passengers, to a different load like household things, big gas canisters, vegetables, whole shops from the food to a carpets, .... If you want to go for a ride, you just catch one passing or you use a smaller boat, which every houseboat owner has for use.
Skaria carries whatever you can imagine - Srinagar - Dal Lake
It is unforgettable to wake up early in the morning, make a few steps and be on the boat terrace watching the sunrise. Surrounding mountains and its reflection on the water surface just enrich the whole view. This experience followed by a yummy breakfast (local bread with butter, honey, egg vegetable omelet and Kawa) followed by a Nargile (if only they had an Egyptian style tobacco here, it would be absolutely great). What else can you ask for?
My host and his more then a hundred old nargile
I stayed on the Dal Lake - the biggest of them all and situated near the Srinagar main city. Dal Lake itself is 8 km long and 4 km wide. It has three main islands - "Ropa Lank" (silver island), popular "Char Chinari" - with a four Chinar trees and "Sona Lank" (golden island) at the south end. There are around 1.200 houseboats on it with up to 2 -6 double bed rooms including bathrooms, with modern furnishing, dinning rooms, kitchen, terraces. Most of them are decorated by a beautiful carvings made from "deodar wood". There are some normal houses in between the boats built on the small pieces of land, also floating gardens, ....
Locals resting in the Botanical Garden - near Cheshmashahi
The family I have stayed with was living in the small hat built just behind their luxurious houseboat, which they use as a source of income and inhabit it, when the tourists are not about. There was a small peace of land around the hat, but in my time it was under the water due to too much rain in last few days. The hat itself is secured on the poles, high above the water level. Family has seven members - three sons and two daughters (one of them is married). I made a friends with them and usually stayed talking and eating in their house, rather then on the houseboat.
Evening on the Dal Lake - Srinagar - Kashmir
Because of the problems in Kashmir and recent killings of some Indian tourists I had the whole houseboat for myself. This mean a luxurious houseboat consisting of two large rooms, kitchen, living room and terrace - in wonderful quiet location of the back gardens with a stunning view on the "Aqua Fort", open water space with houseboat village in distance and surrounding mountains. There were just a few tourist in Kashmir, when I arrived so I paid only a fraction of usual price for such a luxury. For this kind of Supper Deluxe houseboat with a very good view and including food (breakfast, dinner, tea all the time, nargile, ....) you would have to normally look deep in your pocket. Out of season at least 1.000 RS (13 British Pounds) and in the season you start on 1.500 RS or much more per night! Of course, this would not be something likely for my budget, so I was again lucky with the timing :) Thanks to the reasonable price I stayed for a four nights.
Water merchants - my host and nargile in the morning
To get ashore, you just need to take a local small boat or catch a "shkaria" to take you there. It is normal way of the transport, so you can just hitch any of them passing by. Lakes have their own community, much separated to people living on the land. You can find there everything - floating - wanna shave, see a barber on the boat, also medical services, tailor, various shops, restaurants, phone, internet - whatever you might think of - it is all floating around you.
Shalimar garden - one of the Moughal gardens around the Dal Lake
Srinagar and it surrounding has some interesting sights to visit: There is an "Aqua Fort" situated on the steep hill in between the lakes. It creates nice view point from the houseboats, but as it is occupied by the army, it is not possible to visit. In the Mughal times many gardens were built. The most famous are situated around the Dal Lake. Closes to Srinagar is "Cheshmashahi" (Royal Spring - 9 km). On the foothills of Zabarwan mountains, with the famous spring, known for its medical properties. The garden was laid out in 1632 by Ali Mardakhan. Just under it, is a newly built Botanical Garden. It was created by an Indian government for local people to have a place to rest and relax. It is quite big, so everybody has enough space to enjoy a picnic with nargile on Sunday. Above the Cheshmashahi garden - three km up to road is "Pari Mahal" (palace of fairies) - it used to house a school of astrology built by Prince Dhara Shukho, eldest son of Shahjahan, who was interested in observation of stars and Sufism. There are spectacular views on lakes and surrounding mountains. The only spot on the visit is strong army presence and sandbags bunkers build in every corner. Next garden is called "Nishat Bagh" (garden of pleasure - 11 km) and it is a largest of the Mughal gardens, measuring 548 meters. It is followed by "Shalimar Garden" (garden of love - 15km) - built by emperor Jehangir for his wife Nur Jehan in 1616. It has four terraces, with water channels running through its middle. Just above it is a smaller "Harwan Garden" (20km) with a big water reservoir. You can climb up the small hill to enjoy a view on it. Nearby lies trout hatchery and Wild Life Sanctuary, where you are supposed to find the Kashmirs stag "Hangul", black bears, leopards, musk deer, marmots, various birds and unique shrubs and herbs. To get permit for its visit is quite hard - money and time consuming. Also we managed to pass through the most obstacles and entered into the reservation we were stopped by army about 2 km from the entry and even so having all the permits not allowed to continue. Well, that is India. Of course, the money you spent are NOT REFUNDABLE.
Shalimar garden - water ways
There is also famous "Hazratbal Shrine" (10km) which enshrines the holy relic of Prophet Muhamad (Pbuh)". 'Moi-e-muqadas' the sacred hair was brought to India in 1634 by Syyid Abdullah and acquired by Khwaja Noor-ud-Din Ishbari a Kashmiri trader in 1692. It's displayed on some religious occasions during the year. And also "Jamia Masjid" (5km) the oldest mosque founded in 1398 AD by Sultan Sikandar. It is an architectural wonder with 370 wooden pillars supporting the roof.
I made a good friend in Kashmir. He is from Shalimar village, which is about 15 km away from the Srinagar. I have spend some nice time with him and also visited some local places, met with some of his friends and stayed in his house. There I had a lots of very good Kashmiri food.
Trout shopping
Last evening we cooked a dinner with another guy from Austria for our friends family. We got this idea with Uli (Ulrich), when we went to a local trout hatchery. We both eat the trout in the similar way (just cleaned stuffed with garlic and some salt and pepper - in the end sparkled with lemon), so we thought - why not to make a dinner for our hosts instead. It was really interesting for us to just occupy their kitchen and cook the dinner for them as they all very watching our effort. We cooked a 9 rainbow trouts (freshly obtained from the hatchery in the dream price for the western world - 150 RS per KG), with potatoes and lots of salad. Then we served the dinner to all the family and one friend who stayed for dinner too. It seemed to succeed well. And we had all good fun. I have finished the evening by smoking a nargile with Ashik's father.
Dinner - trouts - in the Kashmiri family
In general, I find Kashmir very beautiful place with nice people. Though on the other hand, the strong army presence creates many problems. This is not really because of the separatists & militant groups, which for sure do exist! But in many cases because of the army behaviour to the local people and the way how the area of Kashmir is ruled. Most of the local people are really sick of the army and the way, how Indian government deals with them. This opinion is very common between all the levels of the Kashmir nation, from the simple people on the street to a well educated ones.
I am telling you ...!!!
I must say, although the country is so beautiful and didn't have any direct bad experience there - I still felt under the pressure. Something like not being really secure and all the time expecting something to occur. This was a bit strange.
view from Pari Mahal - the old castle
I think, this was created by the stories I heard around and things which had happened only in one week of my staying. Like: I have learned about the granate blast & open fire on the army jeep on the road to Srinagar, which we passed by bus about half an hour before. Also six Indian tourists were killed not even a three weeks before my arrival in Srinagar. Sometimes I could hear some shooting in the night silence and two days before my departure the army shot to death a young - 22 years old guy - student - without an apparent reason. They left him lying on the side of the road in very inhuman way for quite long time (looked like some kind of trophy). You could see the picture of it in the local newspaper and all the locals were so angry about this, you can not imagine. Army's explanation of the incident was very poor and contradicting. And I am sure, this will cause many further problems in near future. There were already some demonstrations going on from the students and army had reacted by going to a college building later on and beating lots of students very badly there. Looks like no human rights are applied there at all.
Dal Lake - daily life
Most scary on this all is, that this is happening quite often (as I was told), but nobody outside India really ever hear about it!!!!!
Despite of all this I still like Kashmir and hope to return there in the future for a longer time.
Ladakh! What to say? For me it is a beautiful place with friendly people, stunning mountains, amusing view and treks, buddhist culture with many monks and gompas, yummy food, ...
Stok range mountains. Tradition meets new technology :)
All together making a place, which for me feels almost like a home. So familiar, so nice and friendly. It is not hard to stay, it is hard to leave. More then two months of my wondering around this part of the world were not really enough and passed rather too fast. Never the less - in the high season there are too many tourists and especially the Leh city turns to a bit hectic place. It is a difficult to make my favorites - but certainly the Nubra Valleys and around the Lakes Tso Moriri and Tso Kar are the most vivid in my memory.
LADAKH HAPPENINGS IN SHORT:
* Leh and surrounding
* many monasteries - Alchi, Likir, Tiksey, Shey, Hemis, Diskit, ....
* Buddhist festivals (Hemis gompa)
* climbing on Stok Kangri (6132m) and Mentok1 (6293)
* trekking around the mountains
* around the lakes Tso Kar (salty one) and Tso Moriri
* Nubra Valley (a beautiful restricted permit area)
* Drinking "Chang" (local beer) with locals
* Cycling Khardung La (5602m)
* riding zanskar horse
* eating "tsampa" and drinking butter tea and many other really nice things
* .....
The road from Manali done by a government bus takes two days and there is a stopover in Keylong - a smaller city in the mountains. There I met very friendly Nepali people and stayed for only 25 RS a night. Here I also drunk my first "Chang" a locally brewed beer and stayed talking until late. The road to Leh goes over a gorgeous mountains with some high passes. The highest one "Taglung La" is 5328 meters. Many people experience altitude problems on the way, but in my case, this was never an issue. You can also take a jeep, which would cost you more then a double of the bus (1200 RS/ bus 525 RS), but it takes only around 22 hours. The most enjoyable are the stops on the way in the local "Dhaba's" - tea tents, where I found the food to be really nice and tea is also much appreciated.
Everybody enjoys the bike on the top of the world (Khardung La - 5602m)
KHARDUNG LA - The highest mortal road in India and the third highest mortal road in the world. It is said, there is one higher pass in Tibet and the highest one is supposed to be in Bolivia. So how to enjoy this special place? Of course on the mountain bike! :)))) The official altitude reaches 5602 meters and you can see some snow around even in the mid summer. My GPS was slightly less generous, with only stating 5412 meters, but it is still very good challenge anyway. The road is around 40 km long from Leh ( 3.500m) and the altitude difference is over 2.000 meters. First part has got nice coating by a asphalt, but the second part is unsoiled, with many streams running over it. I must say, especially the way down is an unforgettable experience. Going down was really fast and only stops for a beautiful view and to take a photo interrupted my ride. It took me less then 30 minutes to make the top part of the road (the unsoiled part). It was the only time, when even a jeeps (usually fast going) were letting me go, when I was stepping on their backs for a while. The second one on the asphalt was not as interesting, but still pretty good long ride. If you ever get to this area - highly recommended. You can find quite good mountain bike in Leh to rent, just near the "Main bazaar street" and the owner is really nice. He was really exited about my trip and he customised the bike for me as much as he thought is possible. After meeting with more Czech people in Leh, they followed my recommendation and all together made it as a "Czech ride".
Khardung La - 5602 meters - one of the highest mortal roads in the world
CLIMBING OVER 6.000 METERS
Sunrise - Stok Kangri summit 6132m
Stok Kangri summit - 6132 meters
view on Stok Kangri (6132m) from my vindow in Upper Changspa
And yet, one mountain over the six thousand meters was not enough. There are several beautiful mountains around the Tso Moriri lake. The landscape is beautiful - wast planes, snowy mountains, lakes. This part of the Ladakh geologically belongs to the Tibetan plateau and it is a bit different to rest of the Ladakh. You don't meet too many tourists in those areas. Mainly because its remoteness and high altitude and also to get there, you need to apply for a special permit for the restricted areas in Leh (valid up to 7 days).
I have come there with a couple of friends and of course, part of our plan was to climb another mountain there. We arrived to a small village Korzong on the shore of the Tso Moriri lake (Tso means lake), where we stayed for two nights. Part of our group had needed more acclimatisation as the Korzong itself is already in 4.600 meters. Then we left up to the mountains to climb one of the Mentoks. Mentok 1 is higher and it is considered to be a technical climb. Mentok 2 should be approachable as a trekking peak. Our aim was Mentok 2. Also it is considered trekking peak like the Stok Kangri - high altitude makes it not easy task and there is usually snow/glaciers on the top, so crampons and ice axes are worthy part of the equipment. It was quite difficult to learn from the locals, which peak is which and even with one of the best maps you can get here we were still in doubt. In the end we just decided, which mountain we will try. And for me it happened to climb a Mentok 1 as a solo climb.
Mentok 1 - 6293 meters - view on the summit
Mentok 1 - summit - 6293 meters
WITH A NOMADS IN THE MOUNTAINS
Yak, Yak, Yak - Ladakh (from High Altitude Trekking)
Camping with the nomads
Nomads in the mountains
In the nomad's tent
On the pass - ... La - near Tso Moriri - Ladakh
Herd of yak driven by the nomads through the mountains (altitude around 5400m)
Waiting - Korzong - Ladakh
Tso Kar Lake - Ladakh
Tso Moriri Lake - Glacier edge
IN THE BUDDHA LAND
Likir Monastery - Ladakh
Alchi monastery - making tea "chai" - Ladakh
In the mountains
Young monks enjoying the view Alchi monastery - Ladakh
Diskit Monastery - Nubra Valley - Ladakh
view from the Diskit Monastery - Nubra Valley - Ladakh
Stakna monastery series
Stakna monastery - offerings ceremony
LEH AND SURROUNDING
How to operate the shovel - series Leh
Children in Leh
After tea - Leh series
Prayer - part of the life
Leh views - 1
view from the Leh gompa
Leh palace and old gompa in the background
Begining of the travelling is hard. At least for me. There is so many new things going on, so overwhelming. It takes me always a bit of the time to addopt. There are different things going on in my mind and this question I found interesting. I would like to get some opinions from you.
Well, "What is the essence of travelling?" What drives you to travel? How do you find long time travel? Anything you think of.
I know, all of you are surely busy, but if you have some idea, let me know. Just click on the heading to see what I think.
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Following the path of the holy river Ganges up the cities of Haridwar, Rishikes, back to the Delhi to pick up all my stuff and huray to the mountains - Manali (Vashist). I have spent here quite some time. Vashist is nice place, much better then New or Old Manali. Although it gets really busy during the day by mainly Indian tourists, who are visiting the Rama temple and hot springs. The water is really hot and I must say in those temperatures now (June) is not even tempting to have a swim. But it is perfect for the washing clothes. The village itself is combination of the tourist shops, guest houses, restaurants and ordinary life of local people. You can still find here some traditional wooden houses with stone roofs, but many new ones are being build and they are very much changing the village style.
Mountain views from Vashist are spectacular. You can watch high mountains while having tasty meal in one of the local restaurants or enjoy the sunset while sipping some "chai" in another one.
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Manali - surrounding
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If you want to see a bit more authentic lifestyle, you do not have to go too far. It is amusing, how quickly the tourist influance change when you walk into a villages just a few kilometres away. I must say I really liked the little mountain village called something like "Madzhad". It is situated in the mountain and there is no road going there. That means everything has to be brought on peoples back or horses. It has 50 houses (most of them traditional) and should live there about 350 inhabitans. Yes, quite a lot for just a 50 houses, but the family structure here is much stronger and usually many generations still share one house together. There is also one shop in there. It has everything in it, but it is being open just by a demand and I think mainly in the evening.
Kids in local mountain village - "Madzhad".
The mountain above the village reaches up to 3.000 meters, but later continues towards higher peaks. There is old forest on the top and you can see a "Solang Valley" - famous place for paragliding from its top. Also many herds of cattle or horses are grazing on its slopes.
Men in the mountains looking after the herd of a cattle.
If you staying longer in this place, there is nice trek to Bhrigu Lake (4.200 meters). It starts just above the Vashist and it just goes up, up and up. Vashist itself is in 2.100 meters. Locals would probably recommend you a 3 days trip with cook and porter. This is a good idea, if you want to take it really slowly and enjoy staying in the mountains. You can also do it in one day, if you feel for a hard trek. I have packed my big bag and left on my own to explore the place. I must say I had enough in 3.500 meters, so I left my bag with a nice men there in the perfect place to camp. He was actually a cook for a little expedition of two Austrian people. They went with porter and guide up the lake and the cook was looking after the things. We had some tea and nice chat, so I left just with my camera to finnish my climb and to return the same day back and camp with them over the night. What a nice people - all of them. We shared food and stories around the bonfire late in the night.
Bhrigu Lake - 4.200 meters
Once you get all the way to the lake, it is definitely worth it to climb those extra 100 meters for a view from the Bhrigu peak. The scenery itself is stunning. You can see 360 degrees panorama of high mountains. The highest of them are reaching 7.000 meters.
Bhrigu Peak - 4.307 meters
Walking around can bring many nice suprises, like a few woman sweeping forest for getting the stuff (needles like) from pine trees for their cows for winter to lay on. And then carrying it down to the village in typical baskets.
Women in the forest - Vashist
Taking a slow train from the Varanasi, I have arrived to the Haridwar. The journey took 23 hours, but that is nothing in India. You will get use to different measures of time-travel. 7 a.m. - good time - I like to arrive at this time to a new place. It gives me an oportunity not to search for a place to stay immediately (if I have just my small bag :) and also this time in the morning "touts" seems to be still sleeping. I love to see a new place to slowly wake up and get to its daily rutine.
A masive statue in the Haridwar.
Not being sure to stay for the night in Haridwar I went around to explore the place. River Ganga was the best to start with, of course. After spending longer time on one of the bridges and admiring the surrounding I run into a "Naga Baba" - a holly men (sadhu) I met few days ago in Varanasi and spend a pleasant 2 hours chatting with. I knew, he is travelling around and would be going this direction, but the timing was excellent. He was happy to see me too and I got invited to sit down with him and three other Babas. The life on the river bank was slowly starting to buzz and soon I felt like a priviledged guest sitting down with the Babas and sipping the tea they offered. One of the "chellos" brought it for them and sat aside. Also some local guys tried to sitdown next to me, but were shushed away by the Babas. You have to be invited to do so, otherwise they can get very insisting for you to leave. Later I learned some foreigners spent some time with them just to get some "smoke" and paid for it quite a bit ;) I sat with them for an hour or so, we talked a bit, several "chillims" (filled with ganja) passed around and few more Babas came.
Sahdus - Babas smoking weed from "chilham" on the bank of Ganges in Haridwar.
Then I departed to continue my exploration of the Haridwar itself. Nice place, but a bit big and by the midday it got so crowded! Not really by the foreigners, but mainly by an Indian tourist who this time a year travel up to the mountains to escape the heat. They visit all the north places, like Dharmasala, Shimla, Manali and also holy places like Haridwar, Rishikes, Gangotri, ... Many of them are visiting families living in the north, so you can find many Indian tourist virtually almost anywhere. By then I knew, I will go straight to Rishikes and stay there.
RISHIKES - Definitely an easy going place. Surrounded by the hills with reasonebly clean river Ganga in its heart and offering anything the traveller might need for a longer stay. Well, might be there are too many tourist there, especially Indian, because of the summer migration to the mountains. Otherwise, it is a holly place where you can find reatreat in meditation, yoga or many oter activities like rafting, jeep safari, trecking. Some people do find lots to smoke quite enough to leave here their happy life. It is also a gateway for going up to the mountain centers such as Gangotri, ...
Kadbury - should be very good Indian Ice Cream, though the boy is rather sleeping.
Of course I was not much surprised to ran into the Naga Baba later in the afternoon. He mentioned to stay in Rishikes for a week or so and Haridwar was just visit on the way. His name is "Manbadi Naga Baba" (Naga means snake). He is 42 years old and devoted his life to ceasing the "Karma" and becoming the sadhu for 29 years. Usually he stays a half year in the ashram and half year he travels around the India. He also visited the Nepal in the past. Thanks to his quite good English was our communication very easy as my Hindi is not going anywhere.
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Some Babas relaxing on the river bank.
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I spent in Rishikes several days, relaxing and enjoying a bit cooler weather. I managed to read a lot (Piano Tuner, The city of Joy, Life of Marpa the translator (buddhist mythology), ...), meet with Babas - especially the Naga Baba, take some pictures and of course eat a lots of good food. Also I was extremely lucky to become a "ginea pig" for my friend's practise of Aurevedic Massage.
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Magical sunrise in Varanasi was the price for 14 hours journey by bus from Khajuraho. It was confy government bus with proper seats, but still 14 hours is 14 hours. I got in just in time to get down to the ghats and get a boat to see a sun rising above the river. Absolutely spectacular meeting with the holy city.
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My boat headed towards the sun reflecting in the Ganga, alongside temples and bathing ghats. Soon we reached the Manikarnika burning ghat. One of two, where the bodies gets burned in Varanasi. The other one use electick, but Manikarnika is old woden burning. Ritual surviving ages. The view of sun across the river and burning ghat on the other side were very impresive. This ghat operates 24 hours a day and it burn each body for three hours. In average, 50 - 70 bodies a day are proccessed here. Body itself is first bathed in the holy river and then it goes on the woden file. It cost around 5.000 RUP (minimum), but goes 10.000, 15.000 easily, to get burn in the traditional way. They use 4 kinds of wood - Santal, ... What reminds goes to the river - abdomen for women and chest for men don't burn completely. Also ashes, some bones, ... There are 6 exceptions where the burning is not allowed. In this case the body goes directly to heaven - it is thrown as it is, with stone to sink, to the river to dispose. There is a constant fire burning on the ghat (comes directly from shiva), which is here for lighting the bodies. There are no matches or lighters used. This holy fire is considered to be descended from Shiva and burn constantly in the past 7.000 years.
1. Sadhu
2. Pregnant Mother
3. Baby (gets wrapped in the red cloth)
4. Person bit by a cobra snake (symbol of Shiva)
5. Person suffering the "lepra" disease
6. Animal
On the way back I rowed the boat and my boatsmen took me to see more. There was a bigish patch of stuff gathered in the quiet part of the river (picture under - taken later from distance).
FLOATING SADHU, BABY AND PIGLET - that's my introduction to a mystery world of the spiritual life here. While rowing the boat the old corpse of Sadhu has appeared. You can still see part of the orange saari wrapped around the rotting body. Soon after a small package appeared, wrapped in red cloth - "that is baby" comented my boatsmen. Final step took well preserved piglet. It was so swallen it floated on the top as a ballon.
Shocking? Normal? Part of the culture? What would YOU say?
For me - it's rather sad to see anything thrown into the river, where many people bath, drink water, live nearby, ... Though I myself am much to pragmatic. I do not find dead upseting. It makes me remember inevitable part of the life. Indian people has definitely much different approach, but for as "modern people" it is something we are not use to, we are too scared off.
One would say, river Ganges is so dirty. Could be, but considering what acctually goes in it - and this mean everything - I find it supprisingly clean. Ganga, holy mother, life and death together. How many lifes and deaths you have already seen. This city is considered to be thousands years old - the oldist city in the world.
"GANGA NAMAM KY DJEJ"
(mother Ganga - mantra)
What floats here? Everything you can/cannot imagine!
and yet more photos
Flock of dogs on the river bank of the Ganges.
Varanasi is a lovely place. It would be easy for me to stay here very long, but I am getting myself to move around the India, to see more places and one day may be return for longer to my favourite ones. I will leave for the Haridwar tomorrow morning, after staying in Varansi for 5 nights. Highly recommended "Ganpathi Guest House" situated near the Main Ghat. You can get there easily walking from Dasaswameth Ghat (main ghat) towards the Manikarnika Ghat (burning ghat). People there are very friendly and it has a great view on the river, huge rooms, restaurant and it is so close to everywhere. I will also remember this city for its sweets. I have tried a plenty of them here and I have to say: "It is hardly anything better than a big glass of milky tea with bisquits or sweets on the terasse of the Ganpati guest house, watching the Ganga underneath!"
Manikarnika Ghat - Holy burning ghat on the Ganga.
Manikarnika Ghat is my favourite place. I can seat there for hours watching "the reality of life". Yes, Maya dies at Manikarnika and Ganga is the mother of new life. Fire and water here together create a perfect harmony.
Every evening a big puja is held on the Dasaswameth Ghat after 7 p.m. Many other small pujas are also held along the river through the whole city.
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Varanasi - evening Puja on the Ganga.
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Another few days passed and I have moved arround a bit again. I left Pushkar towards Agra to see the great world wonder of Taj Palace. I didn't intended to go inside, as I heard the price was very high. And so it was - 750 RUP. I know, if you get it in western currency, it does not seem so high, but it is hell lots of money for India. They have strong security measures for the Taj. Looks like, they are very afraid someone would blow it up. You can't take even lighter inside and all the bags, ... has to be stored away, before you enter. I arrived early in the morning, got a motor rickshaw for a whole day to make my day here simplier (120 RUP). I did not intended to stay over the night, that is why this arrangement. I got to see Taj soon after the sunrise and one of the guides around showed me nice way around the wall towards the river. So I have explored the palace from around and it is quite intersting to see it from under the walls. I shat a few pictures there and of the poeple around the river. The life around the Taj in the morning is very interesing. There are also lots of monkeys on one side. I peeped inside through the gate inside of the bazar, where nobody comes in. I am sure, I did not missed anything not to go inside. Than I got my rickshaw to take me over the river to see the Taj from the other side. I heard the view was specticular. And it was. I have played frisby with the kids on the bank for a while and watched the local life, before going to see a "baby Taj" and having a tea in the bazar. Other side of the river represents normal life and it is not mapped in my LP book. I guess they are trying to say - "Nothing interesting for the tourist". Really? I found it much nicer than the side of Taj, so commertial, so tourist hungry. From there to see the Red Fort, an enormous building situated about 2km from the Taj itself. Most of the building is used for the military purposes and only small part for a tourist. Still, good place to see. There is a promenade with park near Taj, leading towards the Red Fort. Cycling rickshaw will take you for 10 RUP, if you get lazy to walk in the heat. Well, now is more than 45 degrees of Celsius here (NOW IS MID OF MAY). For me it means real summer. You know my friends, I always say, over 40 degrees on the desert is what I immagine like a summer time.
Kids on the river bank - Agra - Taj.
I spent most of the day discovering Agra and in the end I got fed up to be with rickshaw too much and listen of nice Mughal (shops and shops) city. He was honist with the commision (2% if I buy, some petrol if I don't), but I hate such a waist of the time. I did it for his fuel once and went to see a wonders of the rich tourist shopping. Huge house full of overpriced - "special art" - you can also buy on the bazar for a ten's of the price. It was not to bad though. I had a good chat with the Indian girl there, looking on the juellery and finding out more about the life in India. She is 26 and not married yet (quite late for a woman here). Her name was Ili, which supposed to be a more personal name of the goddes Kali. She said, not married yet, nobody wants me, I am not beautiful. Ha, ha, ha - she was quite prity, but I guess high possitioned and educated. That is always harder to find a suitable men. She also would like to marry for love if possible. That is maybe 5% of the whole India mariage and mainly in the cities. Otherwise the cast system here is very strong. I cannot really see it, but I am reminded of it by the people all the time. I find it strange, but I do understand that it is deeply written in the structure of the country, religion, education and often even in the peoples harts.
I left Agra on the evening train to Jhansi, someting like 3.5 hours away south. I did not have a proper ticket, just unreserved basic fare. Kinda learning by experience. I was told. Reservations not possible and lots of other bulshit. I was not in mood to be finding hard about it so I thought. I will make it, no problem. If the worst come, 3 hours is nothing. I got on the train to sleeper part, second class, well where I was supposed to be, but finding about the system I found it hard to get some seat. Poeple seemed to tray to not to accept the foreigner who was unser of what to do. So I got to nice hight class, airconditioned for a while and waited for conductor. When he come, I made my way back. He said, upgrade possible. First class 250 RUP and for the sleeper reserved 70 RUP, so I made my way. The otherone did not wanted to do any upgrades just for 70 RUP, so I pressed him to find me a place. The rest of the way I spend quite confortably chatting with two boys from Jhansi. I have arrived there quite late and tried some places from LP. Sometimes I thing, the book is written for the middle class travellers, who wants adventure, but still pay lots of money fof the confort. I know, it is just some places, but especially here in India the budged options are mostly overpriced places, who are gaining money on being in the book. Anyway, Jhansi is too expensive with only a few hotels and I had to pay lots of money for a few hours sleep. Though cutting the price almost 40%!
Well, not much interest in Jhansi, so I took early moring bus to Khajuraho. The way take something around the 5 hours, depending on the bus. Departures 5.30, 6.00, 7.00 and 11.30 from the train station. Mine took six hours in the end and broke twice on the way. Not so bad as they managed to repair it quite quickly.
Khajuraho (chadzraho) is smallish hot town with amusing temples. Most of them dates from 950 to 1050 AD, build in Chandelas period. They are coverd with many carvings and statues. There are several teories for the symbolic of the statures - most poeple nowadays like the idea of the "Kamasutra" teaching and preserving the knowledge of different positions. Who knows. But the true is that the statues are amusing. I have also found fascinating, how precise are all the proportions and how detailed carvings are. You can find the pointy niples on women breasts, ... Most of the temples are dedicated to the Shiva's lingham, but there are also Jain temples with the buddha. The most famous is the Jain temple in the East part, where in the centre is Buddha siting in lotus position and a big cobra rises above his head. In the morning sun shines directly on the statue.
Isn't she sexy? Just 3.000 years old :)
Khajuraho itself is quite small place. It is surrounded by a two lakes. In the hottiest time (May, June) is very hot and dry. There are many shops lurking tourist leaving their money there. I myself found very intersting nearby villages, which virtually starts, where the main city ends. People live there in quite simple houses, huts or shelters. You can see very little money around there. It is a long way to get there. Either bus from Jhansi - around 5 hours or bus from Satna (closest train station) - around 4 hours. There is also a goverment run bus to Varanasi daily. It takes 14 hours and departs at 15:00 (Varanasi 4.30 a.m.). It is quite confortable and you have even your seat reserved. This is important, so you don't have to fight about your seat and there will not be another 3 people trying to squize with you there. I found it a perfect way for transport to Varanasi, as you arrive for a sunrise and also you have a whole day to look around.
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A boy fishing in the almost dried lake in Khajuraho.
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So I am online again. Playing with the photos to find out how easy it will be for me to get some of them online. Well, looks like very dificult. I have to shoot some of them specially in JPG if I want to get them online, otherwise I would have to do two conversions from RAFF (big file format :))
So here is one simple photo from my trip. It is view from PUSHKAR, from the guest house I am staying.
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I will be leaving for Agra tonight. Pushkar was nice, small place. Really touristy orientated. At the moment it is low season, so there is not many tourist at all. Holy lake is surrounded by the bathing ghats with many temples and interesting buildings. Some of them used to be a hotels, but now all the inner circuit hotels are closed for religious reasons. Goverment did not liked tourist taking pictures from hotel balkonies and also tourist siting above pilgrims vere disturbing for many of them. Inner circuit is surrounded by a bazar, which is really tourist oriented. You can get here everything. In the top corner of the lake is Brahma temple, very unique one. It is supposed to be only a few of them in the world dedicated to this devine. It is said Brahma himself choosed this lake for his holy place. The most amusing thing on the lake is the fish living in its waters. Although it is not possible to see them whole they look masive. I guess life of fish in holy lake eating holy food is not bad after all. Good view on the lake and city itself is from nearby steep hill, with a small temple on its top. The best time is to go there for a sun rise, otherwise it is too hot. One evening I went out of the city on the dusty road. It is amusing to see, how different it looks out of the city. So grean, with trees and grass in the middle of the desert. We met interesting man on the way, who was just going to the city to sell some kind of fruit. I do not remember its name, but it looks like small cherry with the stone inside. The taste is diferent though, quite refreshing. He has invited us to see the nearby farm and trees, where the fruit grows. He spoke good English, because he is in tourist business for about 20 years. Usually he does Camel Safaris, but not is no business for two months of the heat, so he is selling that fruit. Should be quite expensive. He has a family living on the farm, watering the trees. They are there for one year lease and then can stay if they like it another year or go. He seems quite nice employer. We went to see them and had the best milky tea so far. It was made on the wood fire, with proper assam tea and fresh milk from the goat. The most surprising were the lovely green cups he has served it in. Family is of five members and the kids were 5 (boy), 3 (girl), 1 (girl). The oldest one was so helpful to his mum. He was bringing water for the tea and other things. Completely different life to European kids. They are so lucky to just play all day, .... Well, you might ask why I say we? It was me and two Swedish girls I met in the morning.
Begining? Yes, that is how I would call it. I am in India now as I planned it for some time. About a week later than I expected, but I have arrived to Delhi, where I am spending my third day. My air ticket was quite cheap so I was expecting some dodgy airoplane or so. It was even better then my dreams. Flight was canceled last minute and of course, people around the Heathrow are not very helpful. Instead of having relaxing time sipping bad English capucino and chathing on the phone to friens, I was running between terminals (twice train journey included) for two hours. In the end I got on Jet Airliness flight to Mombay, where the rest of the ticket should have been sorted. Once on the plain, it was all good. Good seat, nice vegetarian food and I had a few glasses of nice Australian red wine to chill out. Then I watched some movies. You are right Tara, "Memoars of the Geisha" are nothing special. Though I really liked the part as she was dancing on those high shoes.
Well, change over in Mombay was ok, with some confusions and considerable time extention. I got to Delhi almost at sunset and once the Airport bus got me close to my hotel, it was completely dark. How I hate to arrive to new country at night and look for a place to stay. I wondered around for ten minutes or so and then I cought cycle-rikshaw. In the end it costed only 20 RUP (from 50 wanted) to confortably pass through the bazars and see the life for a while. I got my place in the "Down Town Hotel", really nice with shover, toilet (all in marble), double bed and aircon for 170 RUP/night. I thing good deal. OK, enought about the prices. Just wanted to give you some inside about the costs.
I took my time here very gently. Lots of sleep, wondering around. It is around 45 degrees here during the day - hot and dry - and the nights are stiky hot too. I went to see the Red Fort and Jama Masjid, both build by a Mughal king some 400 years ago. Very monumental buildings. There are many great bazars around this area. Chandi Chowk, Old Delhi railway station, Main bazar near New Delhi railway station. Food is good and tea mainly with milk. Today I went to search for a real darjeling tea in some cofe place, but did not find any. In the end I bought some loose one, which I am going to try to consume very soon. Tomorrow I am leaving for Ajmer - Pushkar holy lake.
You will have to wait for a photos for a while. It is too dificult at the moment to upload them. Also I did not take any so far. Just don't feel like it. Especially to use my digital camera, when I see so poor people around. That is it for the now, if you want to know, what is happening, check out this website once in the while. I am going to remind you about the updates sometimes, but not always ;)
To climb volcano Etna was something I wanted to do for a long time. I was closely watching flights to Sicily for a few months and then I finally got nice deal from Ryanair. Sicily in winter is not very touristy, though the weather is quite mild in the sea level. There were lots of big storms around the time of my arrival, which meant lots of fresh snow on the top of the Enta.
It was difficult to get transport out from Catania, because the connecting bus to the Refugio Sapienza just didn't came. People in Sicily are very relaxed about the services, like all the Italians. They said something like "it is too much snow up there, so the bus is not going". Several local people were not very happy about it either, though it did not surprised them so much. They just went to the nearby ticket office and refunded their fare. In the end me and four other foreigners, who were waiting for the bus, had to do the same. Later on that day, I got another bus to the closest village, which is still about 17 km from Refugio Sapienza. The other foreigners had joined me and we were all hoping to get a taxi or hire a car for the last part. Unfortunately, there was no taxi service there and nobody wanted to earn extra few euros to give us a half an hour ride. I have left my company here and finally headed towards the mountain on my own feet. Luckily I hitched a car few kilometers after the village. It was one men working in the hotel in Refugio Sapienza, so he gave me a lift all the way up there. He also gave me lots of useful information about the volcano itself and the current conditions.
Refugio Sapienza consist of a few hotels and cafe's situated in the beginning of the cable car (Not working at the time of my visit. It was hit by an lava about a half-year before my arrival). The cable car would take you only above 2000 m.n.m and rest is up to everybody himself or herself. I have arrived to the end of the cable car in the mid afternoon and met here last two people in this altitude on the volcano - mountain guides, who were trying to pull out a truck from the snow to get it down to the Refugio Sapienza. They were surprised to see me there and gave me well-meant warnings.
From the end of the cable car, there was a no path or even footprint, just a lot of fresh snow. The weather was good, but it was changing. In a few hours I got up to about 2700 m.n.m., where I had to stay over the night. Since my departure from the end of the cable car, the weather conditions have changed dramatically. It was not sunny any more, but the volcano was hidden into the thick mist and strengthening wind brought a heavy snowfall. For a while I was finding my way up only thanks to the marking poles and sometimes I had to wait for a few minutes to see in which direction is the next one. I did not wanted to give up so easily and tried to reach higher altitude. Finally the darkness has started to fall and I had quite enough, so I made my camp for the night.
I pitched up my tent next to the marking pole, secured it with a smaller snow wall and made myself comfortable inside. I hear you laughing! “Comfortable”! But all of you, who has already done it know, that it is a great pleasure to get inside the tent, take your shoes off and crawl into your sleeping bag. The temperature dropped down to something like minus 15 degrees of Celsius. I ate some food, nicely warmed up and made myself comfortable for the night. In about an hour later I realized that there is a bit too much light on the side of my tent. It got me quite worried, where it could come from and also lots of strange noise was not very convincing. I crawled out of my tent to find out what is going on. The weather has cleared for a few minutes and fist thing I could see was an amusing sky, so full of stars I have hardly seen before. And down, on the foothill, lights of the Catania city. Peaks of the surrounding volcanoes were lit in the moonlight. It was truly beautiful view. And then I looked over my tent and .... yes,
there was this stunning view of river of vivid red light and smoke running just a few hundred meters away, across the mountain edge parallel with my tent. This scary and beautiful river of lava was making its way down the mountain. Now I fully understood the occasional noise I noticed in last few hours and also the smell, which I was associating with the smoke going out from some of the side craters. Here I was watching powers of the mother earth and thinking: “What the hell should I do in this situation”?
I did not take any pictures, so you can only imagine. Reason? There are moments in my life, when I refuse to use camera and I take a picture just for myself - into my mind. Those are pictures I remember for rest of my life.
There was no sense to leave, as I was not entirely sure, if there is any safer place to go at that moment. And also it already was night and temperature was not friendly for taking a long walk. I have packed small emergency bag and planned my escape way to the nearest non-active looking crater. I can ensure you, it was a long night, although I tried to sleep. There were two more eruptions during the night. But it was just more magma flowing in the same river as before. In the morning I seriously considered descend. It was still heavily snowing and clouds together with the mist made it almost impossible to see around. But after having a breakfast and packing my tent, it has slowly started to clear.
I have decided to wait for a bit and my patience was appraised by a blue sky and sunshine. I have completed my climb a few hours later and enjoyed some beautiful views from the top of the volcano. There was no more lava flowing down on the surface. Just quite lot of smoke was spreading above its cooling lid. I descended to Refugio Sapienza in the afternoon. Here I met a French couple, which was camping nearby Catania that night. They have told me about the huge river of lava they watched that night on the mountain. I could only smile - yes I know, I was camping a few hundred meters away :)
That evening I took bus back to Palermo and stayed in the most beautiful old-fashioned hotel there. The old hotelier has recommended me a nice traditional pizzeria and I enjoyed the best pizza and vine in my life.
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