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TravelMagic

I have finally made it to New Zealand. Arriving to Auckland, hitching from the airport. So far I have to say, I met lots of very nice people around.


Auckland Streets


Auckland Graffiti


Wai-O-Tapu Thermal Park

Quick stop in Singapore to catch my flight to New Zealand ....

Malaysia rock! After Thailand I found the Penang Island and the city of George Town very interesting. George Town has many old buildings in the colonial architecture and as I learned today the biggest Chinese population in Malaysia. And so the 15th day of Chinese New Year celebration went on with huge incense sticks, many people praying, ... Really authentic atmosphere.


15th day of Chinese New Year - Penang



Fabulous door - Penang, Malaysia


Clock Tower - George Town, Penang

Rich country of Thailand and Bangkok - the crazy tourist hang out. It is really big change to see so many 'white faces'. Also the year of Pig (2550 - Chinese calendar) had come, but the celebrations sucked in Bangkok.


2550 - Year of Pig - Chinese calendar


Bangkok - Thailand

One of the poorest countries in the world?! That how the economic definition goes. The country itself is almost like two worlds. A beautiful undeveloped Ratnakiri province (near Vietnam and Laos borders) with deep jungle, tribal people and still a few tourists. And then Siem Riep, where the famous Angkor temple is found. Overpriced and extremely touristy, where I felt like supporting the whole economy of the country.


Angkor Temples - Siem Riep


In the jungle - Ratnakiri province


Spiders - they eat them fried!!!


Sun Set - Ratnakiri - Cambodia


Phon Penh - Killing Fields

Good Morning Vietnam!!!!
Yes, I am in the country of Ho Chi Minh, place of the famous Vietnam war and country where the communist regime feels more like capitalism, with many "pretty" red flags everywhere.



Rickshaw in Saigon


Rush Hour - Saigon



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More to follow soonish - as for Laos and China
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New Year brings change to my travelling too. I have decided it is a time to cross to another country and so shortly after stepping into 2007 I have left China and crossed to Laos. There were not any major delays on the border and without even taking bags out of the bus I easily swapped the countries and continued all the way to Luang Nam Tha. The first bigger place after the border. It was not as far into the country, but the change is noticeable. Suddenly I found myself in the tropical country, with less advanced technology and no people. That is the biggest change from China. There are not many people and roads are almost traffic free. What a pleasure to cycle around. Also the local villages are much less developed then in China.



LUANG NAM THA - is nice and quite cheap place to hang out. People there are friendly and I really enjoy going through the surrounding villages. You can see much of the local life there and just easily walk or cycle in the countryside. Many rice fields on the foothills.

NONG KHIAW - Second place to where I moved from Luang Nam Tha. Living is relatively cheap and I have managed to find excellent room with a terrace overlooking a Nam Ou river and with the really friendly owners. One of a few people, who were nice in this place. Food in the restaurants is overpriced and there is no choice of any local cuisine. Shops are sometimes more expensive then restaurants for the same items. For me this place is a big rip off, where people are not used to the tourism yet and they see just easy money. Though they do not offer anything in return. They rather try to cheat you to maximalise their profits. So no bargain, no discount, but many ridiculous requests. It made me really angry to deal with some of them. And they all look so miserable, like they hate their life. That is a big difference from Luang Nam Tha. There people in the villages live normal life and they are happy. Although they are a bit reserved and also the language barrier, you can talk with them, laugh with them, ….. In Nong Khiaw it is not possible and when you manage to interact with someone, sooner or later they will try to make money from you. Well, that’s mine feeling about the place.



MUANG NGOI - much better choice, although it is very much a tourist village. People there are much friendlier and they still live their traditional lives. You can do some nice walks in the surrounding, explore the villages and the mountain scenery around is rather spectacular. As it is on the river and the access is only by a boat, you can do lots of other activities too. Like to hire a kayak or a local with the boat and go around for a ride or fishing, swimming, tubing. This place is an hour boat ride up the river from Nong Khiaw and it cost 18.000 Kip one way.

LUANG PRABANG - quite a big place on a Mekong river, reachable from Nong Khiaw by boat (7 hours - 100.000 kip) or by bus (4 hours - 32.000 kip). It is watched by Unesco for its unique colonial architecture and many “Wats” which is a Buddhist temple. It is incredibly touristy place, thanks to the airport and easy reach from Thailand or Vientiane. Many people also come by boat on the Mekong river, which is also great experience. Accommodation is much more expensive, but you have much bigger choice of food. Its night market with its barbeques and street dishes makes it cheap and tasty culinary experience.



VANG VIENG - more like a tourist town, where the local life goes on. Many restaurants have TV playing all day long the famous shows like Friends or Simpsons and some also show good films. But no need to move, it is easy to stay in hammock on the river or in front of your bungalow. Don’t worry, there are possibilities for an active life style too. The countryside has many hills and caves, which you can visit. It is simple to go for the river kayaking, rock climbing, tubing (one of the local tourist attraction - drink as many beers as you can stand, while tubing down the river), rent a bike or just walk through the jungle to the nearby villages. In the evening, you can watch a line of millions of bats twisting above the hills just after the sunset. It is an incredible natural phenomenon. The bats group and leave the cave together to hunt for a food at the same time. They create long line stretching over the horizon. You can see them every evening for a few minutes. It’s like a watching a show.

Absolutely perfect place to stay is in the bungalows “On the other side”, which you can find just after crossing the bamboo bridge over the river. You are so closed to the main street, but in a relaxing place completely isolated from civilisation by the river. You can enjoy many great views to the open countryside, on hills, jungle and rice fields and of course, the river life on the other side. There is nothing though, you would be deprived of. Two bungalow restaurants can cook you great food or make a fruit shake anytime of the day.



Another think I was looking for and found is a rooster fight. It is something very typical for Laos and other countries in South East Asia. For me it is rather a perfect photo opportunity. It isn’t been made into a tourist attraction like a kickboxing. It still continues to be just a passion of the local people. And that is what the atmosphere was like.

Many Greetings from a far away lands and the best wishes for Christmas and New Year 2007.



Time flies, especially for me while travelling.
Last eight months were great and I did many things which deeply enriched my life.
Some of them might sound little bit crazy, but for me they were the most wonderful experience ;)

To all of you lots of sun shinning in your souls and magic of the world revealing in anything you might lay your eye on!

All the best from 'Z'

I have finally left the Himalayas behind. After sending my bicycle onwards to the New Zealand I had decided to leave Lhasa by a plane. Tickets out of season were discounted by 50% and so it was a good coincidence. For me it was a perfect way to say good bye to my mountain adventure and finally finish a half year of mountain exploration. The weather was on my side. Blue sky and amusing visibility were the mountains gift for my departure. I had all the Himalayas spread around like in the palm of my hand. Here I understood why they call the Tibet “Roof of the World”. To see all the mountains below is such a sensation, like seeing the ocean curved on the horizon. The only difference is that the horizon is disappearing in the endless snowy peaks. The perfect good bye.

Sichuan province is bordering Tibet and it has very old cultural background. It is mainly famous by its Tea. Sichuan means “four rivers” and yet many rivers are sparkling down the mountains through the province. Local cuisine is quite spicy, using lots of chilli and “Sichuan pepper”. The way of eating specific to this region is the Hot Pot. A big pot in the middle of the table, full of spicy broth and with the flame underneath. You cook the food of your choice by yourself in it. Climate is rather humid and it creates a grey overcast in the area. This is badly affecting the atmosphere of otherwise beautiful city, where the blue skies during the winter time are rare.

Sichuan Opera, Chengdu


CHENGDU - I have landed in Chengdu, the city of Pandas, Sichuan Opera and also known as the “Tea Mecca”. Full with the Teahouses and excellent tea on every corner. No wonder I spent there, with some breaks, almost three weeks, being lazy, enjoying nice people, lots of tea and very good food. That’s what I call relax and recovery time after the mountains, especially after cycling in the Tibet.

Pandas - Can be found in nearby Panda reservation. The Giant Pandas in its population of something like 1000 is one of the most known endangered specie in the world. They are living almost entirely in north and northwest of the Sichuan province and in a few centres around the globe. They are purely vegetarian (95%), eating several kinds of bamboo trees. From about 300 different variations across the China, they eat only 20 of them. Considering their size, they can consume an enormous amount of food a day. Something like 20kg. They spent around 15 hours a day eating and the rest they sleep. Almost symbol for laziness. They are solitary animal, getting together only in the time for reproduction. Very often they give a birth to a two cubs, but only one is to survive. With the care of the human in the centre, the numbers of cubs surviving increased a lot. It is unforgettable experience to watch their routine, way of eating and fooling around.


Giant Pandas, Panda center - Chengdu



EMEI SHAN - mountain (3077 meters) - my most likely last proper mountain for a while ;)
One of the Middle Kingdom’s famous Buddhist mountains with many temples and monasteries.


Buddhist temple, Emei mountain


LESHAM - The city of the Grand Buddha. It is 140 km south away from Chengdu. City itself is situated on the long peninsula created by a big river. Long promenade is lined with many small restaurants, where you can enjoy afternoon sun together with a great view on the river. It seems to be relaxed place, an easy hang out for a few days. I went there to see the Grand Buddha, which is the main attraction there. Though, I was not prepared to pay 130 Juan for it. It might be nice to walk in the park and then descend on the side of the Buddha, but I think the price is a bit overboard. Nevertheless, while walking through the city, we met a nice local guy - Peter - who had told us, how to see the Buddha just for two Juan. And it was exactly what I was looking for. Not only the price, but the location was just right for taking pictures. We took a ferry to a small island on the river, where the locals go for picnics. One of it ends faces the Grand Buddha across the river in 40 meters distance. So you get to see it very well.

The Great Buddha, Lesham


"Yunnan province is situated in the Southern part of China and you can see influence of all the surrounding countries in it. It lies on the borders with Vietnam, Laos, Maymar (Burma) and Tibet. It is place of many variations - from Snowy Mountains in the North to tropical rainforests in the South. It is also famous by its ethnic minority mix. You can find almost 50% of China ethnic minorities here. And the weather is much nicer here then anywhere else, with a blue skies most of the year."

KUNMING - Yunan province, big modern city with great atmosphere and wonderful "Flover and Birds Market" - really original.


Dinner?, local speciality, Kunming


HUATING MOUNTAIN (Western Hills - Kunming) is visited by many locals but fortunately escaped the western tourist hit. Entry to the Huating mountain park is still free and you can visit its temples for a symbolical price of 5 Juan. Same price as the local people pay. I love this area very much. You can find there one of the most spectacular views on Kunming city situated on the other side of the lake and there is also a smaller stone forest in the on the top of the mountain and surrounding hills. You can simply wonder in between the rocks and enjoy anonymous spots with romantic views. Lots of people come there with friends, play games and have picnics. Great day out of the city. Easily reachable by a local bus or you can cycle there as I did. My best recommendations are to cycle in and then stay for a night in the local “villa hotel”, while exploring the surrounding. Out of season you can get generous discount.


Contact Joggling, Huating Temple


A short history about Huating Temple a very beautiful place:
“Huating is named after the Huating Peak of Green Cock Mountain which belongs to the West Mountains near Kunming. The original location of the temple was the villa of a Dali nobleman of Song Dynasty 1453. In 1920, Master Xuyun, a very famous old Buddhist monk, who had been in Zhusheng Temple at Jizu Mountains, was invited by the Provincial Governor Tang Jiyao to take the position of Abbot of Huating Temple. Before the coming of Xuyun, the temple had been so poorly managed as to almost lie waste and was to be sold to some foreigners to open clubs, which had been approved by the local government. Xuyun was deeply disturbed and seriously worried about the future of the temple and he asked Governor Tang to prevent the illegal transaction in time. The main cultural relics kept in Huating Temple are 2 jade Buddha statues presented by Burman Buddhists, a gold-plating Buddha statue presented by Thai Buddhists, a copper statue of the Zhunti Buddhist with 3 eyes and 18 arms stored in the Abbot room, Buddhist Shrine of Master Xuyun, the steles cared with Lin Zexu’s (a famous poet and official of Qing Dynasty) and Guo Muoruo’s (a famous temporary writer and poet) poems.”


Huating Temple, Western Mountains



DALI - Beautiful city, place where the Daoism and TaiChi were born, ...


Anknown Soldier, Dali


JINGHONG - a capital of Xishuangbanna prefecture. It is situated on the Mekong river. Nice and relaxing place with cheap living and excellent food choices. It is easy to get around on foot or rent a bicycle for further explorations. The main change noticeable on the arrival is more humid, rather tropical weather and palm trees lining its streets. There are also two way language signs, both in Chinese and Dai. Dai language looks very curly, something like Thai. And indeed it is very similar to Lao and Northern Thai dialects. If you speak any Thai, it will help you to get around very well. Dai people belong to sect of Hinayana Buddhism and their temples are very different to those of Tibetan or even Chinese one. I spent my New Years Eve in Jinghong. After enjoying an excellent day out of the city and cycling alongside the Mekong river to Ganlanba. Later on I had lots of good food and drinks in one of the local Café Restaurants, celebrating with two German girls and two guys from Holland. There were a few other foreigners and some Chinese around too. Midnight brought cheering with a glass of a local beer and enjoying Chinese explosives. Later that night we all went on exploring the wonders of a Chinese disco. Fun night out.


Little puppies, Kunming



GANLANBA - Small town around 25km from the Jinghong. It is quite an easy bike ride (2 - 3 hours) to this ethnical place lying on the Mekong river. Road itself is busy with traffic, which is a real downside of this spectacular ride. Otherwise you can just enjoy great views on the Mekong and surrounding hills. I really liked a Dai temple at the entrance of Ganglaba and wood carving workshop in its side. Some amusing peaces there covered with dust and spider webs turned this place into a fabulous photo composition. Ganglaba is also famous by its Xishuangbanna Dai Garden, where the “Water Splashing Carnival” is being held. Now as one of the major attractions, lots of nice and young girls (100 by the propaganda) are splashing and dancing every afternoon in the Garden Park. Other things to see in the garden are some peacocks, Buddhist Temple, Princess Well and many nice trees and flowers. You can also take a ferry across to explore other side of the river, small villages, ....

MENGLA - An uninteresting smaller city, but important crossing point on the way to Laos. From here you can get a local bus to Mohan and then cross on food to Laos or you can get on the so called “international bus”, which will take you all the way to Luang Nam Tha (in Laos) for 32 Juan. It is minibus, which goes once a day in both directions and makes the way much easier. Four hours later you depart to a relaxing cit of Luang Nam Tha. You can get Laos visas directly on the border.




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More to follow soon!
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Travel through the Western Tibet, Lhasa, ...
Some monks are still here!!! - Sera Monastery
ROAD BOOK and HIGHLIGHTS(Kashgar - Lhasa, 2.900 km, by bicycle) Road condition on the Xinjiang - Tibet Highway is generally very rough, with many challenges coming from sandy patches, dust clouds created by passing vehicles (fortunately not too much traffic), rocky sections and always presented corrugations. This all in the altitudes around 4.000 - 5.500 meters, usually more closer to 5.000 meters then lower, with many passes ascending for a ten's of kilometres and strong winds pushing you around in the afternoon. And when you finally feel, it could not get any better - the weather change and brings you some snow to enjoy. During my trip the temperatures at night would drop down to - 15 degrees of Celsius (when a big river next to my tent would turn into a sad patch of ice) and during the day sometimes down to - 5 degrees of Celsius (when the heavy snow clouds would not let the sun to say hello).
After one snowy night
Cycling out of Kashgar was nice, though my bike is more looking like a fully loaded yak then a bicycle (around 35kg). Also my body had to get use to the new exercise. First 250km to Yecheng (Karghilik in Uighur) went on smoothly on a good asphalt road. Some smaller hills, but generally through the very dry or desert areas and patches of greenery, where some Uighur villages could be found. The only really annoying thing on this way was the "Ramadan". There was not much food available during the day nor tea and also people I meet being friendly, but not knowing how to cope with hospitality, when nothing could be offered. Sometimes you could really see they would like to invite me. One even said: "oh, if not Ramadan, we would have a lunch together". And at night, when all the restrictions lift, I was already camping somewhere out of town.
"Have a good journey" - Bey, Bey Kashgar
"Wake up" - drunken Uighur - Kashgar
km 58 - Yengisar - A small town known by its knife production of famous Uighur knifes. They use them in everyday life, households, as a presents or even as a decoration. Every Uighur men has got one, usually hanging of his belt. Some of the smaller ones are carried above ankle or in the shoe. They are good to "slit a throat" as I was told. Sizes, shapes, decoration varies.
Uighur knifes - Yengisar
km 250 - Yecheng (Karghilik in Uighur) - The entry gate to Tibet. Joining the road 219 - Xinjiang - Tibet Highway. Karghilik is another Uighur place, where Han Chinese are just a little minority. For me it was one of the most touching Uighur places. Unfortunately I didn't spend there too much time. Even though I only met extremely friendly people, took lots of pictures and again enjoyed the wonders of the local cuisine. Yecheng - from the streets km 469 - second pass 4993 by GPS from one of the road books. A beautiful mountain scenery, all covered by a snow, including the pass. From this point is going to be cycling in high altitudes, with a minimum of 4.000 meters above the sea level. Some 2.000 km later will start slow descend to 3.600 meters in Lhasa. From the second pass - mine bike km 493 - Mazar - First more important place after Yecheng, where you can get some cooked food (good Chinese), restock on supplies. From Mazar the road climbs many high passes and crosses huge high altitude plateaus - like the famous one - "Aksai Chin" - where all the distances are deceiving. It seems to be just a few kilometres, but in fact the mountains on the other side never come closer. Sometimes it takes a whole day to cross one plateau and then you realise, it was around 50 km. Unbelievable?! On the way you see many lakes and beautiful mountain scenery, enjoy a waste space and solitude surrounding you. Sometimes you see a few nomads in a far distance with their animals grazing on almost no grass lands. Aksai Chin plateau km 1094 - Domar - a military base and a place to get some food to eat, dormitories and a few shops to restock. km 1199 - Rutok Xian - quite a big place with shops, bank, restaurants. Situated to a Tibetan part of the Pangon lake (104 km long). Pangong lake is nowadays situated between Tibet (China occupied territory) and Ladakh (under the India rule). From here the really bad road continues all the way to Ali. From the road - locals waiting for a lift km 1330 - Ali - Also called Senge Khabab (the Town of the Lion) is the capital of Ali prefecture. Big town, where you can find almost everything. Full of a good restaurants (Chinese, Tibetan, Uighur), public showers (hot water again), bank, excellent food supplies in the supermarkets. It is the first big break point on the way to Lhasa, where you can easily regain energy for the second part of the road.There is also a direct bus to Lhasa (on the North road), making the travelling far more easier. Ali and its modern architecture Short patch of a good road after Ali Small settlements on the plateaus, road views - Tibet
“PILGRIMAGE” is being practised all around the world and it can be found in almost every religion. It is usually a journey connected with some rituals on the way. The most famous might as well be the one to Mecca (Muslims), to Rome (Christians) or the road through the Pyrenees to Santiago de Compostela. For Hindu and Buddhist is one of the most precious ways the visit to Mt. Kailash. Pilgrimage in Tibet is very strongly practised and you can meet pilgrims from all over the country travelling to holy places like - Mt. Kailash, Lake Manasovar, Tirthapuri (hot springs), Yamdrok tso, Nam tso, Sheldrak and many others. Most of the pilgrimages in the Tibet include a circuit - "kora" around the particular place. The act of "kora" is stronger, if it is done at sun rise or sun set, at the time of full moon or if you repeat it 3 times, 13 times, 108 times. Some of the pilgrims also practise "Chaktsal" - the prostration, which is a powerful way to show their devotion. It is sometimes called as a "measuring the earth" as the followers move only by their body length each time. Lying down flat on the ground and then getting up and walking the distance of their body. This they repeat all the way. Pilgrimage for many Tibetans also means accumulating merit (sonam) and good luck (tashi).
km 1526 - Moincer - bigger town, great food, entry gate to "Tirthapari" pilgrimage and its hot springs. It is being said - no holly pilgrimage to Mt. Kailash is completed without visiting Tirthapari and having bath in its hot springs. They are closely associated with the "Guru Rimpoche". Pilgrims traditionally bath there after completing the circuit on Mt. Kailash. They are located 9 km of the main road from Moicer. Continuing on from from Moincer it is only 66 km to Darchen and Mt. Kailash (still one day bike ride though). Views along the road, Tibet Traditional way of transport, Darchen km 1592 - Darchen - Entry gate to Mt. Kailash Pilgrimage. One of the holiest mountains in the world. There are a shops, restaurants, hotels and dorms available, but generally speaking, it is a dirty and ugly place. All town looks like one big tip, with rubbish piling everywhere. Not really a wonderful entry gate to such a holly place you would imagine. Though, there is a recent huge development happening. Many new houses are being build and I guess they will pave it soon too. Yet, another one to be made presentable towards the forthcoming Olympic games. Mt. Kailash at sun set from the sky burial site Mt. Kailash - the North face Mt. KAILASH AND ITS “KORA” (circuit) This place was considered as a myth for a long time in Europe. When the first news came about a holy mountain somewhere in the Asia, with a perfect shape, snow capped all year round and with beautiful twin lakes nearby - people could not believe it. Only in 19th century, one European traveller made the difficult journey through the Himalayas and there he found it. Exactly as described - not a myth at all, but reality! Mt. KAILASH (6714 meters) - Has all year round snow capped peak. Called Kang Rimpoche in Tibetan (Precious Jewel of Snow). Its four main walls match the cardinal points of the compass. It is one of the most important and holiest mountains in the world and it has been an object of worship for four main religions: 1. HINDU (Shiva, the destroyer), 2. BUDDHIST (Demchok, in Sanskrit = Samvara) - a wrathful manifestation of Sakyamuni (equivalent of the Shiva) 3. JAINS of India, 4. BON - sacred Yungdrung Gutseg - Nine Stacked Swastika Mountain. Pilgrims, Mt. Kailash kora The circuit around the mountain offers the possibility of liberation within three lifetimes and also one lifetime of your karma for each round. The circuit itself is about 52 km long, with the highest point to cross - Drolma La (5630 metres). It's nice to take the way in 3 relaxing days, but it can be done as short as 15 hours. This is usually done only by Tibetan pilgrims, who are repeating the kora for many times. They almost look like they were flying around. Also I feel I could make it in one day with no problems, but I chose the slow option to fully enjoy the place/passing pilgrims, ... It took me three days with just a few hours to walk every day carrying my big bag. Most of the pilgrims do it very light or have their stuff carried by yak. On the Kailash kora FACTS ABOUT THE MOUNTAIN Number four plays an important role in all the events connected with the mountain. As I mentioned, its four main walls match the compass and they all have very special name: 1. South face - Lapis Lazuli, 2. West face - Ruby, 3. North face - Gold and 4. East face - Crystal. Mt. Kailash is also a place, where 4 big Asian rivers begins - Sutlej, Karnali, Brahmaputra (Yarlung Tsangpo) and Indus. On the kora, Mt. Kailash km 1614 - Barga - small and dusty place, entry point for the Lake Manasovar. If you cycling from Darchen, take a part of the kora - circuit first (anti clock wise) and then follow a small road across the bridge. It will safe you one river crossing and also quite a few kilometres. Eventually you will join the main road again, somewhere before Barga. And the most important, the road is really nice! In Barga we stopped for a yak butter tea and played a few games of biliar, with excellent panorama of the Mt. Kailash in the background. Playing billiard in Barga, Mt. Kailash still in the background 15 km off the main road - Manasovar Lake (4560 meters) - also known in Tibetan as “Mapham Yum tso” - the Victorious Lake. The circuit (kora) around the lake is 110 kilometres long and take 3 to 5 days. Most travellers/pilgrims head to "Chin Monastery" first and starts their kora from there. We had skipped it and instead went off road towards the town of "Hor Qu". Believing in the existence of kind of a dirt road, making the kora possible to access by a jeep ride (I have red it somewhere), we arrived at the lake shore nearby the ruins of the "Chekip Monastery". Now only represented by a large chorten. Mt. Kailash is still visible in the background. There are a high cliffs by its side, with long prayer flags and many caves/hermitages. Some of them are so big and well equipped, they have become a permanent houses for a monks. Other are just as basic as a sheep skin on the floor for a meditation and stonewall covering the entrance. I have squatted into one of the larger one, situated high in the cliff face. Apart from the beautiful view I was astound by its comfort. There were a several rooms, wood and yak shit storage (full), teapots, thermoses, stove, tsampa, kitchen stuff, oils, incense, blankets, ..... On the walls religious pictures, thangas, praying wheel and beads next to the meditation seat. It all looked as the monk had just left for a short walk (and maybe he did :) Really nice place to spend a few years. As the road did not exist our expectation for the next day ride were not very happy. We pitched up the tents on above the lake shore with view all around and enjoyed this magical place. Our solitude was not meant to last too long. On our return from the caves, two nomad tents were erected nearby and few horses were grazing around. Those Tibetan pilgrims were walking the lake kora and kind of really belonged to the place. So it did not loose its atmosphere. They were curious and friendly. Lake Manasovar Manasovar Tso kora is one of the most important pilgrimages in Tibet. The lake represents female wisdom aspect of enlighment and is a symbol of good fortune and fertility. It is said that circuit (kora) of Lake Manasovar can result in spontaneous buddhahood. Nomads, Manasovar Tso (lake) On the road :) km 1639 - Hor Qu - another ugly town, built in the Chinese style. Despite all, still important stop on the Manasovar Lake. You can hire horses for the kora here, restock on supplies or find some hot food in the local restaurants. After lunch there, we cycled over the smaller pass to make some more kilometres before sun set. Soon after we were forced to camp quickly near the road by coming snow storm. Once in the tent and with the stove running, it was all good. In the morning we "very much enjoyed" (a word starting with F.... was the first thing that come on my tongue, when I opened my tent that morning. And same I heard once Lars peaked from his tent later on) a couple of centimetres of the fresh snow. View before Raka, South and North road joining km 1873 - Paryang - place with good Chinese food, some hotels and shops. There are many nomad tents on the plains before and after this town. Also impressive sand dunes can be seen along the way. It is nice to see all the livestock (animals) on the surrounding planes. Some areas are rather sad, when you see Chinese attempts to settle down the nomads presented by many houses through the plains or shabby/dusty villages build next to the road. Most of them empty at the moment, but this will probably change in the future. km 1945 - side road to New Zhongba - new Chinese style city with many shops, good restaurants, Internet, petrol station and the asphalt road (7km) connecting it with the main road (dirt road). Behind the hotel - New Zhongba km 2109 - Saga - Important town where you can find everything - shops, Internet, bus connection to Lhatse, Lhasa, many restaurants, big hotels, hot shower. For many cyclists also the place, where they take the turn (shortcut) towards the Nepal, joining the "Friendship Highway" some 180 kilometres later - near Tingri. Tingri is one of the bigger places in the Everest region. My way took me to Lhasa instead. Billiard is everywhere - streets of Saga km 2180 - Raka - small place with a few shops and restaurants. It gain its importance, because the North Road from Ali is joining the South Road just a few kilometres before the town. The North Road is used by most of the trucks and also the direct bus from Ali to Lhasa goes there. km 2210 - Beginning of road construction, really bad road (the worst since Kashgar) for next 150 kilometres or so. Almost all the way to Lhatse. Also a way to get through the really shitty road km 2463 - Lhatse (4050 metres) - Finally joining the "Friendship Highway". Bigger town, but not very interesting. Nice asphalt road starts from here and there is only one high pass on the way to Lhasa left. km 2615 - Shigatse (3900 metres) - Second biggest city in Tibet, after Lhasa. The capital of Tsang province. Shigatse is known as the seat of the Panchen Lama, who is traditionally based in Tashilhunpo monastery. Nowadays it has been rapidly expanding Chinese town, with many new buildings, shops, restaurants, ... There is daily bus connection to Lhasa. Altitude is slowly lowering and the weather is becoming milder. The road follows the "Yarlung Tsangpo" river, also known as the Brahmaputra in India. From the road - Tibet km 2884 - LHASA - The capital of Tibet and traditional home of the Dalailama (Potala). It is an ancient city full of religion, pilgrims and tourists, with a dominant castle of the Dalailamas and several big monasteries in the neighbourhood. First news about Lhasa becoming a capital of the Tibet is from around 650 AD, but its status had changed through the following centuries. It has stayed in its status since the fifth Dalailama built the Potala palace and re-established Lhasa as a capital in 1642. There are several circuits/koras in Lhasa. One is around the Potala palace. Other called The Barkhor circles the heart of Lhasa and Tibetan old town - the Jokhang temple. Linghor kora - traditional route circling the old city and it is almost 8 km long. It does incorporate the new Chinese developments nowadays as it use the old route walked by the pilgrims for centuries. Main places in Lhasa are: Lhasa - Potala palace (from the back side) Lhasa - Praying Wheels BARKHOR SQUARE - traditional place of protests, pilgrimage, entrance to Jokhang temple and Barkhor kora. This is the real Tibetan heart of Lhasa. It creates border between old city and new Chinese development with a large streets, modern shops, restaurants. On one side are all the designers, famous brands shops and with the Jokhang temple, old city on the other. Circuit is full of sellers with traditional clothes, jewellery, incense, thangas, prayer flags and beads. There are always many pilgrims walking around and quite a lot of people prostrate. Along the way you can find several small temples and nunneries. Pilgrims and the smell of burned Juniper make it into a magical place. Prostration, Barkhor Kora, Lhasa

Praying, Jokhang Temple, Lhasa

Barkhor Kora, Lhasa

RAMOCHE - Is smaller, but very interesting temple in Lhasa. At the time of my stay, they had many ceremonies and also the sand mandala there. All these were happening as the result of a bigger repair works. One day I was lucky to see there a Guru Rimpoche (the head lama) - a very interesting old men. There is also small temple/chapel on the side of Ramoche called Tsepak Lhakhang - always filled with many pilgrims. Its atmosphere is indeed magical. Ramoche is a sister temple to the Jokhang, originally built to host the “Jowo Shakyamuni” image, before it got moved to the Jokhang.
Monks, Ramoche Temple

JOKHANG - one of the oldest and most religious places. It hosts the “Jowo Shakyamuni” - the most revered Buddha image in Tibet. A long cue of pilgrims waiting for access the Jowo is all the time circling inside temple and it’s definitely worth it to wait with them. There are also always many pilgrims praying in front of the temple. No matter if it is opened or closed. For the Tibetans it represents the living heart of their culture and therefore the time doesn’t make any difference. From its roof you can see roofs of an old town, surrounding mountains and also the Potala Palace.
Tibetan, Jokhang Temple
Prayer wheels, Jokhang Temple
POTALA PALACE - Is stunning architectural creation, dominant on the hill. Nowadays surrounded by an entire newly build Chinese city. The old Tibetan city itself is situated around the Jokhang temple. It used to be a lively place, residence of Dalai Lamas. Nowadays it’s rather sad museum. It is being recognised as a national heritage by Chinese, but this is quite a recent movement. It used to be left to deteriorate in past. Now it is full of Chinese tourists, who come to admire the beauty of its architecture. Photography is strictly forbidden and you can see many signs to remind you about that. And in case you cannot read, each room is heavily guarded. You are not allowed to bring in lighters or matches, but my two knifes were perfectly ok. Reopened to public in 1980 and since then it went through some renovations. The most recent development is happening in the park behind the palace, which is being fully rebuilt. One of the main reasons for that is forthcoming of the Olympic Games in 2008 and also I heard Unesco had some talk about it with the Chinese government too.
Potala Palace at night, Lhasa

Potala Palace inside, Lhasa

Potala Palace - On the way up
LUKHANG TEMPLE - A temple on the small island on the lake behind the Potala palace.
Lukhang Temple, Lhasa
CHANGPO RI (Iron Mountain) - used to have one of the principal medical colleges (Mentsikhang), but now is dominated by a steel telecom tower (mast). Though there are very beautiful rock carvings on a cliff there. Not much visited by tourists, just a local people there.
Rock carvings, Changpo Ri

Lhasa - from the city kora AROUND LHASA There are several big and very important monasteries around Lhasa. Some of them are in the suburbs others in a day trip distance from the city. Those three mentioned bellow are the biggest and the most important of them all. DREPUNG - Some 8km from the Jokhang, used to be one of the largest monasteries (means “rice heap”). Founded in 1416 by a disciple of Tsongkhapa. It has four main colleges devoted to “Ngagpa” - Tantric study, “Loseling” - Logic, “Gomang” and “Deyang” - religious study. There is also an interesting debating courtyard, but I felt about it as being rather a theatre performance (also with many tourists around) then a real religious discussion. It used to host up to 10.000 monks. Now they are allowed to have only something like 800 heads.
Debate, Dhrepung Monastery

Kitchen, Dhrepung Monastery

SERA - lies 5 km from Jokhang temple. It also belongs to the Gelupa order. It used to have up to 5.000 monks, but now you can find only a few hundreds there. It has a really good debating courtyard. Founded by another disciple of Tsongkhapa in 1419. Sera kora (circuit) is great, containing many stunning views. You can also climb the mountains behind and it is good starting point for a further trekking. Generally speaking, it is very lively place busting with real atmosphere. Together with the Ganden it would be my most favourite monastery in a whole Tibet. SERA UTSE - retreat place, high above the monastery. There are no tourists there, just a few pilgrims, but really great place with very nice keepers. Of course I climbed up there as I saw it from bellow. A small boy (around 6 years old) took care of me and showed me around. Then he invited me into their hose, with the older keeper hosted me with tea and we learned some English together. I enjoyed a few hours up there with them.
Sera Monastery

Guardian, Sera Utse Monastery

A boy in Sera Utse Monastery

GANDEN (4500 meters) - around 50 km from Lhasa. I made my way there cycling. All the way to he village below the monastery. Here I parked my bike and went for a steep climb up to the monastery. There is a road just being finished, but I much more like the walk. You also meet lots of Tibetan pilgrims in this way. You have time to enjoy a great views on the surrounding mountains and nearby valleys. Ganden was build as a first Gelupa monastery in 1409 (means Joyous) and it is also named as the Western Paradise (known as Tushita), the home of Jampa the Future Buddha. It is one of the most beautiful and friendly monasteries. Come around the noon, when the tour groups leave and also most of the pilgrims start to descent to catch their last busses to Lhasa. Then you can slowly browse many temples and enjoy quiet, magical atmosphere of the place and the surrounding mountains. I was lucky to experience a “real” and most powerful debate in my life, with the stunning mountain scenery in the background. I was the only intruder!
Ganden Monastery

Ganden Monastery, surrounding mountains

THOUGHTS ABOUT THE TIBETAN CULTURE IN LHASA AND IN GENERAL In this part I am trying to summarise my experience with the Tibet and its culture. The view point is mainly taken on Lhasa and its inhabitants. This is because I feel; there is really big difference between people living in Lhasa and the Nomads in the very remote areas. Not only in the lifestyle, but also in education and Chinese influence. Yet, it also includes the view on the whole culture as many pilgrims cruise the country and brings their experience with them. There is no way to keep old Tibet preserved as it was. The change is inevitable and also needed. Though NOT in the way as Chinese see and apply it!
Signs in Lhasa

Tibet itself is still very little developed in some areas, especially where the Nomads still practise the traditional way of life. Of course, there are other parts, where the development took off very fast - like Lhasa, where the development is so fast it might sometimes be too difficult to integrate the change to the mentality. Lhasa is one big melting pot, where new and old is mixing together inseparably parallel. Like a spirals crossing its ways - sometimes on its own, sometimes together. Lhasa is also an easy place to hang out, full of culture and life. Mix between Han Chinese, Tibetans and pilgrims from all over the country. Pilgrims are easy to spot as they are usually traditionally dressed. And of course, there are some westerners there. In November were not so many of them, because it is out of season and even Lhasa is getting cold. I was told there is not much snow usually. But the surrounding mountains get quite a lot of it. Face of Lhasa is changing very fast. Vast Chinese influence with modern development, buildings, technology, new shops and simplified working life style is what you can see on every step. All the developments and especially the modern technology are changing the native Tibetans faster then ever. Many migrants from all over the country are seeking here new opportunities and better lifestyle here. Competing in unequal fight with Han Chinese, whose migration is supported by the Chinese government. Watching some Tibetans - let’s say around 30 years old is the group. The age, when they became mature and started to contribute to a normal life. Usually having started a family and incorporate Buddhism together with tradition into the everyday life. It’s them walking on the street partly dressed in the modern closes, with a backpack and shopping in one hand and with the praying beads in the other. They have started to understand their role in the society and found the place for a cultural heritage in their life. Younger Tibetans are fighting for their identity like any other youngsters. Though for them is much harder to do so. On one hand, there is a pressure of tradition, religion and national feeling - being occupied and restricted in their homeland. They hear many stories from their parents and have somebody from the family badly treated by the regime or escaped in the exile. Also, there are many restrictions applied if you are ethnic Tibetan. Like, you can get a passport to travel - Chinese, of course - but as you are ethnic Tibetan a different rules do apply. Han Chinese can easily travel to Nepal, even drive there. Ethnic Tibetan with the same passport can not cross the border. And if so, then it is very complicated. The other side forming their personality is pressure from the modern world. All the new things - mobiles, comfort, disco, drinking, more open lifestyle - easier life. Education which suppresses the religion and all the cultural believes. The education which tries to breed atheists. Many of the younger ones don’t believe in “God” - Buddha, yet still, they can not help themselves wondering, what is behind. Man have fallen into creating new way of believe - believe in being good and doing good things (for a good Karma), and doing so, feeling good for the inner self. They still go to the temple to pray. But not praying to the same Gods as their parents. They pray to find their inner peace in the place of tradition, the place where believes even for non believers could be expressed and wished for, thanked for, … And when they grow older and become more mature, they hold upon the tradition more and also understand it more. Not being same as their parents, but keeping Tibet with its culture in their hearts. Traditional way of living, with the prayer on the lips and spinning prayer wheel in the hand - especially preserved by an older generation. More traditional families keeps their children fully involved and so passing on tradition continues.
Offerings for dead person, Lhasa streets

Then you have all the pilgrims coming from every corner of the country, bringing in ancient way of pilgrimage, prayers and clothing. They keep all the others to remember, what it means to be the Tibetan. Some of them never seen a foreigner before and in the way, they are so natural in their behaviour. Generally speaking, Tibetans are rather reserved and it takes a time to break into their closer circles, to be accepted as a part of their friends’ circles. Yet, they are very curious, with high self esteem and confidence - that is why there is so much stress on ego lowering in the Tibetan Buddhist tradition. I found it hard to make friends with them sometimes, because they are so reserved. But sometimes, when you break the ice and they accept you, they are very sharing and carrying. The nicest people I met were around the Mt. Kailash, while I was doing my kora/pilgrimage. Two old ladies who gave me sweets before the kora; the family I stayed the first night on the kora. They are the most memorable people of them all. It might be, because the holy kora brings people more together. They have something in common. Something, which seems to be so important for the both sides.
Lhasa streets - No 1

Lhasa streets - No 2

Lhasa streets - No 3

Buddhist culture in Tibet: I found it very different to what I thought it would be. Not real expectations, but rather a surprise that came. Especially compared with my experience of the Buddhism in Ladakh and some other places of the Tibetan refugees in India. In Tibet all the religion had been very much regulated by the government and there are specific numbers of monks allowed in each monastery. Sometimes I wander, why would you want to become a monk here? The older ones, who were monks before, are of course predestined, but probably the most watched one as well. And the younger ones? For some, it is they way of showing devotion to their country and culture, for others the struggle with a Chinese rule. In some remote areas a way to escape the routine and learn, how to read and write (like a sheppard boy I know from Dharamsala. After 6 years of being monk, he left to exile and being lucky - he is now in McLeod Ganj.) Many monks I found more living the normal life, than trying to progress on the way of the enlightment. Also my feelings about many monasteries were quite mixed. The strength of old tradition, retreat centres and real masters are now much rarer and in general quite hidden to the outside world. Rather in remote regions, where even a Chinese influence has a long way to go. Most of the places in Lhasa I found a bit more as tourist attraction then the place of a real devotion. My favourite is definitely Sera Gompa - the very lively place and in some remote parts very devoted. But the Ganden Gompa (50km out of Lhasa) is my most favourite place of all Tibet. A beautiful place with real monks and monastery life. Partly restored, but with many ruins still around. They are left overs after the heavy artillery shooting, which is still pretty visible and years of ignorance to the national heritage. Many pilgrims are passing through and also some foreigners. But they usually fast track it. After mid day, when is a time for them to get back on the bus, there is nobody left. Also most of the pilgrims left for the last busses to Lhasa. In my eyes the real life of the Buddhism in Tibet is done/practised by its ordinary people. Not by monks, but by the ordinary people. It is them, who shows the strong devotion and carry on the tradition and the traditional culture. Monks and monasteries are often too influenced and restricted by the Chinese rule, spies, …. They represent poor fragment of what the religion used to be before. But the pilgrims, travelling from one part of country to another, that is a different story. Practising traditional ways, turning their mani wheels, building cairns as the pass and chanting the mantras. They are the real religious and cultural inheritance of the Tibet. With them the Tibet lives and dies. They are the most cherishing (enriching) experience, the real heart of the Tibet. Thinking of some vivid example and nice memory of Tibetan life, I would like to share the one of an old women walking around and turning a big praying wheel with a small doggy (Tibetan palace dog), which is circling with here many times round - a beautiful example of devotion! (And it is good even for a dog, for his karma ;) With the tigers - Lhasa - house paintings
xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx “A tear had dropped for country ruled and crushed. Tied with the tradition, but riding on a modern horse. The country where spirit floats and body dies and where the happiness holds hands with pain. The tear had dropped for country and its people.” xxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxxx

KHUNJERAB PASS CROSSING - PART 2
It was not much hassle to cross the border and then we enjoyed a beautiful views on the mountains in Khunjerab National Park. Also Chinese border was without mayor delays and friendly enough not bags checking, so we passed to Taskurgant in the broad sunlight. Here we decided not to stay and took a shared jeep directly to Kashgar (100Juan). A bit pricey, but fast and comfortable.

Jurts on Kara Kul Lake


He stopped for the taking pictures and on Kara Kul lake. We arrived to Kashgar before midnight Beiging time (10 pm Kashgar time, 9 pm Pakistan time). All China operates on the Beiging time, but all locals use the Kashgar time. The only official places taking Beiging time are banks, buses, ... Great dinner in the local Uyghur restaurant has nicely finished the day.


Uyghurs near Khunjerab Pass


KASHGAR
Crossing onwards from the Pakistan, Uighur town of Kashgar was not as much of a difference. Though the Chinese influence is quite visible. Lots of changes came with the new train line a few years ago and of course lot more Han Chinese come with it too. The old city of Kashgar is slowly disappearing, making a space for the new development. Typical Chinese invasion - rebuild everything with an ugly modern houses, straight streets, big squares. They even have a sightseeing wheel - similar to London Eye there, overlooking the place with nothing to see. Its rather rusty look is not reassuring of its use and even safety.


Hello MR. Mao :) - Kashgar


Kashgar is famous for it's cuisine and honestly, after the Pakistan, the choice is just a great. Uighur food is tasty, consisting of many varieties. Especially focused on meat. But not only, you can find some nice pastries, local nan breads, cold noodles on the streets (local speciality). A bit shocking, but very popular are cooked goat heads or broth made out of them. All the bazaar areas and traditional crafts workshops meet at the big square with the main mosque. It is considered to be one of the biggest mosques in China. Nearby you can watch a chess players sitting under the trees and having their daily match.


Local Uighur bakery - Kashgar


I am in China. Hmm, rather a Muslim - Uighur area minority, which is very different to China mainland. And how to get from there to Tibet? Well, why not on the bicycle. Xinjiang - Tibet Highway is officially prohibited to tourists, especially independent travellers. Nowadays yo can pay a bit of money and get on the jeep organised by a travel agencies (around 1700 Juan from Kashgar). This one of the worlds most difficult road takes you almost 2.900km away from Kashgar. All the way to Lhasa.

Giant - cycling shop in Kashgar



So I went to check out one big bicycle shop - Giant Store - in Kashgar to see the possibilities for my cycling adventure. And a few hours later I left the place with a brand new mountain bike fitted with back panniers and everything else I could find for my journey. Still not being completely sure, what I am really doing I took my new "treasure" back to the hotel. Next few days I spent enjoying the cycling around the Kashgar, shopping supplies for the way and thinking, how on earth will I fit all my stuff on the bike. I could not get any front bags and so I eventually found a solution. I fitted one of the baskets there, making my bike really unique. The mechanic from the Giant Store was just holding his head, but he was really nice guy, who helped me a lot. And you might know my affection for a Crumpler logo (sorry Ta). Having a few stickers around I found a great way, how to personalise my new toy - a funky yellow sticker with a black drawing of a man on the front of the basket.

Fruit seller, Kashgar


KASHGAR - (1290 meters) One of the main trading posts on the silk road and melting post for all surrounding minorities of Tajiks, Uzbeks, Han Chinese and Uighurs - which holds the majority. Recent Han Chinese migration is slowly changing the numbers and Uighurs might soon become a minority in their own place.

Local craftsmen - Kashgar


Old town streets - Kashgar


Uighur chicks - Kashgar


Chicken? - Kashgar


Ohhh, that is good!



Preparing for the future travel - Kashgar

Pakistan a beautiful country full of friendly people, amusing scenery and tradition.

WAGAH - INDIA/PAKISTAN BORDER CROSSING
Crossing from India to Pakistan is possible through the Wagah border, which is about 25 km from Amritsar - the city of Sikh's & The Golden Temple. It is easy to get on a local bus to Atari. From here it is an easy distance by the cycle rickshaw (15RS) to the border. Crossing itself is just fun. The bureaucracy between the countries is really ridiculous. Especially India's paranoid approach, with all the forms and many check - like anyone could disappear in between there. You have to pass about 600 meters through the border zone. Stopping at least 3 times on the Indian side for a various reasons. If you come as a backpacker, there are usually no delays. Once you get to Pakistan side, you only enter your passport, take a small ticket with number, pass it to a soldier when you exiting the gate and you are out. No fiddling, no bother.


Together - Gilgit


The most interesting (apart from the famous flag lowering ceremony) is to watch a stream of porters on both sides carrying a cargo , which they off loaded from the truck on one side and after passing the border zone it again gets loaded on another truck on another side. Each country has got a different coloured uniforms and they carry all boxes to a dividing line. Here they swap a box with their colleagues. Being very careful not to step over the line. To make sure this is being fully followed you have many soldiers closely watching on each side. And if a careless one steps accross the line? Well, a lots of shouting immediately follows.

Smoking "Hukker" on the street - Lahore


PESHAWAR
The city with so much feelings. Buzzy multicultural mix coming almost from the fairytale. The old city has very special atmosphere with its old bazaars, full of smells - spice, vegetable, meat and dirt. This city with old Persian Afghan influence was a very important place on the silk road and caravans had stopped there for ages. You can still find many caravanserai's's - usually a big house with a simple accommodation, where the camel caravans stopped for a night and merchants sipped tea and exchanged stories from their travelling. One street leading from a Kabul gate was named after those travellers - "A story tellers street" Old city used to be closed behind the wall and twelve gates led into it. Nowadays only a few of them are left, with the most famous Kabul gate. For me the most magical in the city is to find a little hideaway with old samovar and sip "Kawa" (green tea with cardamon) with the locals. I have found two beautiful places like this. One is in old caravanserai house just about 30 meters from the exit of the cinema road in the first floor. When you walk, you will see a few "keer" places on your right and on your left in the first floor a two big samovars with lots of teapots around are standing out of the wall under the roof. A small entry door will take you upstairs of this A... Hotel/tearoom. Another one is hidden in one of the houses in the spice bazaar in its yard. There are a big scales weighing almonds, rosins, nuts, ..... and in the opposite corner on his "throne" next to the samovars an old men is making tea. A throne place is not just an expression. You have to see yourself a place they put the samovars on, where the tea men is sitting and making all the Kava and Chai into the most ugly/beautiful teapots. Some would call them a broken, aged junk others an antiquity and I know a few foreigners who were begging the owners to get one (not a new one, but the one with the history).

Peshawar - tea place


People there are extremely nice. Many times I have ended up not paying for my tea, as they referred to me as the guest or somebody else just paid for me in the tea shop. I got given bread in the morning and sweets in the sweet shop. Really hospitable people. But of course you have to be careful, there are some not really good individuals, who tries to help you out of your cash. Mainly all the freelance guides, who in the end just take you to some shop to drink tea, .... It is no problem not too buy, but sometimes you feel obliged like giving something back to the guide for all his effort showing you many things around.

AK47? Cheap men! Local tribal men near Peshawar, Pakistan.


And also beware people offering you visit of the "smugglers bazaar" or Kyber Pass. You should really trust the person for it and don't pay more then 300RS for the Smuglers bazaar - a place to see a hashis, heroin, some bad quality fake notes, opium and some guns - AK47, Chinese pistol and a pen gun. That is all. More you can see in Darra - cyber pass village, where many other guns are copied and you can shoot some rounds there. Smugglers bazaar has also Heineken beer and whisky. The best for visiting this place is, if you want some alcohol, beer or hashis to smoke

Wanna steak? Peshawar


RAWALPINDI/ISLAMABAD

From the streets - Rawalpindi


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LAHORE

In the bushes - Lahore